QuestionQUESTION: i found the leak my self but i don't know if i could replays the casket between the engine and the Chan cover the leak is right on the top of the water pump.
ANSWER: Hi Vesselin,
If I understand you correctly there is leak of oil around the timing chain cover. To get to it to replace the gasket is quite a bit of work. Are you sure that is the source of the leak and not the cylinder head cover? My suggestion would be to tighten the timing chain cover screws at the place of the leak to see if that reduces it (27 N-m). If on the other hand the leak is from the cylinder head cover, tighten the bolts to 11 N-m. I would agree that replacing the timing chain gasket is a very hard job, and you would need the manual and have the tools.
Roland
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QUESTION: this is water leak Mr. Roland and i really don't know what to do , i have to travel very soon to Europe with the car and i don't know if that is possible with this leak , its leaking very little but the leak is leak .
I will explain again in case you didn't understand right , the leak is coming from the casket , could be not from the time cover maybe different casket but it is between the engine
and some cover its located about 10 centimeters after the water pump if you look strait down on the left side of the engine behind the belt there is a small corner on the engine exactly from there is coming out only when is a cold engine . I will be so thankful if you could help me with this problem . thank you for your time .
AnswerHi Vesselin,
I would add that it is more likely to be a worn out water pump (leak around the shaft seal) than the o-ring/loose bolts leak as the cause. Water pumps do wear out and when they do so it comes out from the shaft and would run down directly under the shaft which I believe is what you are describing.
Roland
Hi Vesselin,
A coolant leak would have to be coming from the rear of the water pump as I visualize the engine. The rear surface of the pump bolts to the front of the chain cover with 5 bolts. The first thing to try is to tighten those bolts, but be very careful not to break off the head of a bolt. The torque value is 12N-m or 9 ft-lbs, and you may simply find one bolt is loose. I don't know if you can reach all 5 without taking off the drive belt and the pump pulley. If you do, the pump pulley bolts have to be secured to a torque of 30N-m pr 9 ft-lbs. If you have to remove the belt, then find the tensioner pulley and put a wrench on its bolt and rotate the tensioner arm clockwise to relieve the tension on the belt for removal. Notice the path of the belt before you remove it. If you find that the leak is still there then you will need to remove the water pump and replace the o-ring. Keep in mind that the leak could be coming from the seal around the water pump shaft itself, and that would mean replacing the water pump all together. A new pump will come with a new O-ring. I would therefor look closely to see if it is leaking from the shaft, or from the edge of the pump body so as to decide what you need to do.
You will find that all the work is facilitated if you will first remove the shield that is between the right wheel well and the engine compartment so you can work from that opening which allows you to see and work on the front of the engine. Just jack up the front wheel and put the van on a jack stand for safety, then remove the panel (shield) that is between the wheel well and the engine compartment. Of course it you are going to remove the water pump you should remove the coolant by draining it from the radiator.
May suspicion is that you have a leaking seal on the water pump shaft and that a new pump is what you need, but if you believe it could be from the rear of the pump/engine interface then try tightening the 5 bolts, CAREFULLY.
Rolamd
