Chrysler Repair: Gr.Voyager 1995 wont start., headaces, white pin


Question
Hello again from Norway!

I have felt a slight resignation today - mixed with thoughts of gasoline and matches...  Not beeing able to find the souce of the problem is a bit of a downer. Anyway, I think I might be on to something. I have difficulties consentrating at times because of a nevrological damage, so things often take time - and headaces - to get puzzled right.  ;-)

I have read through your last answer several times and I will try to comment on each of your points. What is "marked" is what you wrote;

"Yes, the box in the engine compartment is the power distribution center. I am sorry to have misread the fuse in question: it would be labelled 'eng' (15 amp)."
Then I understood you correctly. Tested and found ok earlier - and yet again today!   ;-)
"I would verify first that when you are cranking that you indeed have 12V on the dark blue/white pin of the ASD. If you like you can pull the ASD relay and measure on the in-board pin of the socket which is attached to the dark blue/white. If you have a reliable 12v then the ignition switch is OK because that voltage comes thru the ignition switch from fuse 16."
This might just be the case. Fuse 16 is tripplechecked (ok) and I have established that the red/white to the ASD-relay has constant current, but this blue/white (blue/light yellow by me) is a different story; When ign. is off there is no power to it, in run-pos. it gives 12,4 v., but when turning the key it only gives 0,88 v. AND then not being able to close the relay. This just might be it. When it starts blue/white delivers full current. Do you recon the problem is in the wiring from the ignitionswitch or in the ignitionswitch itself causing almost no voltage ? Is this blue/white going directly from the ign.switch to the ASD-relay ?
"You said something about a problem with the starter but I wasn't sure what you meant about re-wiring the circuit for that. Maybe the ignition switch?"
I had to re-wire from the ignitionswitch to the starter. The wire for guidancecurrent. I actually tried with a different ign.switch that I borrowed to check if that might be it before I re-wired.  Maybe I should borrow this again...
"The blue/yellow wire is connected between pin 51 of the ecm and to the out-board pin of the ASD socket. Thus when the 12V is applied to the in-board pin and the outboard pin is grounded, the coil is energized which closes the switch contacts."
I was not able to locate pin 51 on the ECM-contact (don't have a sceme), and no wire had the same colorcode as the blue/white(yellow) either. I am not quite sure as of how to messure the coilcontact, but the times the blue/yellow in the ASD-relaysocket gets 12 v. in the startingmoment - the car starts, and everything works. Hm. Ignitionswitch-problem ?
"You can test the sensors, but without an 11 or a 54 code I don't believe they will be found wanting. I'll tell you how if these other checks work. You were getting a 42 Code! That means either that the ASD is no good (but you substituted another relay for it, correct? It should be a relay that is not also need to run the engine by the way) OR the two wires we are focussing on are the problem, or the ignition switch itself is flaky. I don't know which."
After dis- and reconnecting the battery again, then pulling the ASD-relay, inserting it again, and cranking before/afer, I still only get code 12 and 55. The relay was substituted for another, yes. Low fan rad.relay. They are all the same. You can also hear/feel the ASD-relay clicking in for a sec. when put in run-pos. So we are probably down to the two blue/white(yellow) wires to the ASD-relay. The one goes to the ign. switch, and the other goes to pin 51 of the ECM. Is this correctly understood ?
"You could simply by-pass the ASD by jumping a wire between the red/white and the dark green/orange wires (or by pulling the ASD and jump between the front pin and the rear pin of the socket which will cause the fuel pump to run, the spark coil and the injectors to get power) and then try to start it. If it starts then, your problem is the ASD circuitry. If not, then I would focus on the sensors. But don't leave this jumper in place as it will run down the battery and of course the fail-safe function of the ASD is defeated by such a jumper."
I tried this with a jumper (removed to shortly after) , but it didn't do any difference. It still didn't start. Does this rule out the ignitionswitch ? What to try next ?

I hope you still "hang in there". I understand this is a bit more than the average question. Thank you anyway.

Atle Davidsen

Answer
Hi Atle,
The voltage (current) to operate the ASD relay coil is provided to the socket on the blue/white wire which is the in-board most pin of the socket. It should look more white than yellow, because the pin directly opposite has the dark blue/yellow wire which is supposed to be grounded by the ecm when you are cranking and when the engine is running. So if you don't have 12V on the dark blue/white either when cranking or when running the relay will not close and the engine will not run because the relay contacts will not be closed so there will be no power to the spark, the fuel, the injectors, etc. So if you don't see 12V on that dark blue/white wire in the run and the starter position of the ignition switch then the problem is most probably inside the switch, or the blue wire from the switch to fuse 16, or the blue/white from fuse 16 to the ASD (you can check the voltage at the fuse if you are certain the wire from the fuse to the ASD is OK). I am surprised if you indeed jumped from the red/white to the dark green/orange that the engine would not start. If you are getting spark, the fuel pump runs, and the injectors click under those conditions and it still won't start then I would suspect a mixture problem (have you checked to be sure the egr valve is not "ajar", i.e. slightly stuck open). The history around the starter is interesting because there are two sections inside the switch that get power from the same incoming wire (red wire, 40 amp fuse in the power distribution center) and one is for the starter and the other for the fuse 16.
So those are my observations for now.
Roland