QuestionQUESTION: Hi again Roland,
I went and double checked the wires you told me to again on the PCM, red/wht number 3 and it has voltage all the time, and blue number 9 and it has voltage when switched on.
I tested the sensor wires while turning by hand, and i'm getting between .03 and 3.68 on both, but I believe my battery is weak from trying to start the van.
I have it on charge now and will test them again tomorrow. I noticed the wires for the plug to my crank sensor looked rough.
Do they run straight to the PCM? If so, is it possible to run new wires from the sensor to where the wires go in to the PCM?
Also, when I get the battery fully charged I'll try the jumper on the ASD relay and see what happens.
I'll also check for voltage at the coil at that time.
Thanks again,
Russell
ANSWER: Hi Russell,
That sounds like a good plan. On the wires from the crank sensor, yes those go to the PCM. The black/light blue is a ground that goes to a splice and from there to pin 51 of the TCM as well as to a dark gray 10-pin disconnect behind the battery and from there to pin 4 of the PCM. The gray/black is a signal wire and goes to a splice and from there to pin 6 of the TCM and to the same disconnect where it goes to pin 24 of the PCM. The orange is a voltage source and goes to the same disconnect and from there to a splice that sends it to the fuel rail and to pin 7 of the PCM. So you should be able to trace those leads as well with an ohmmeter or continuity tester.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Ok, I checked the wires from both sensors at the PCM connector with a fully charged battery. I am still only able to get 3.88V max and its going down to .04 on both sensors. Also I jumpered the ASD relay, and when I did I could hear something running the whole time it was jumpered, fuel pump or injectors maybe? Anyway, I had no voltage at the b+ wire of the coil connector or any of the other wires on the connector. Any idea on why the voltage of the sensor wires is so low?
Thanks,
Russell
ANSWER: Hi Russell,
If you are not using a high impedence voltmeter but rather something without any solid state components such a low impedence device that could be giving you a low voltage reading.
Of more concern is the absence of 12V at the coil on the dark green/orange wire. If you have the ASD coil by-passed (the sound of the fuel pump running is proof of that) then you should have 12V on that wire at several locations: the alternator, pin 57 of the PCM, the 10-pin light gray disconnect behind the battery, and that connector sends along the voltage both to the coil pack and the fuel rail to all 6 injectors. Until you find why that circuit between the ASD and dark green/orange wires is not connected you will not have a chance of starting the engine.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I ran out and checked pin 57 at the PCM with the ASD jumpered, no voltage. No voltage on the 10 pin light gray disconnect behind the battery either.
AnswerHi Russell,
If you have 12V on the dark green/orange wire at the ASD (because of the jump from the red/white) and you don't have it on pin 57 or at the light gray disconnect, then there is a splice located in the harness just to the rear of the row of the 4 or 5 relays on the left inner fender that must have opened up. I don't know how easy it is to find such a splice in the harness but maybe you can trace the dark green/orange wire into the harness and find it. That is where those three dark green/orange wires meet and share the voltage from the ASD relay. You could temporarily jump to those two locations from the ASD and see what happens, as an alternative just to test whether that restores your spark function and maybe starts the engine.
Roland
