Chrysler Repair: 94 Intrepid hub assembly change, haynes manual, hub assembly

Question
QUESTION: Hi there, I was just wondering if you could tell me how difficult it would be to change the left front hub assembly on a 94 Intrepid 3.5, we have the part and the Haynes manual, a mechanic wants $90 and if it's something we could handle would hate to fork it out as can't really afford it after spending a hundred bucks on the part. Thanks so much for being here to let us non-handy folks pick your brain.

ANSWER: Hi Jody,
The Haynes manual is an adequate guide to the repair. I do also have the Chrysler shop manual which has more detail and I would be pleased to xerox and postal mail the pages to you. (I pay 10 cents per side plug the postage which you could reimburse me with stamps after receiving the pages.)
You would want to have a torque wrench and the sockets required for the bolt/nuts that need to be torqued to a specified value as well as a pry bar in case you need to use it to release the hub from the knuckle. I have not tried this job myself but based upon my review the most important point would be to use care in installing the hub so as not to damage the "flinger", and the most troublesome part might be to get the old hub out of the knuckle and also at the same time release it from the drive shaft (there are thus two surfaces that need to slide so the frictional binding might be an issue requiring the pry bar (particularly if this hasn't been done since the vehicle was new)).
I would give it a try for you can always stop and reassemble if you get stuck somewhere along the way.
Use the "thank and rate" tab to provide a postal mailing address in the comment section should you want the pages.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: We have tried pry bar, liquid wrench, and a hammer but still can't release the old one. All the bolts and things are off it just wont pull off the post. Any ideas? Thank you so much.

Answer
Hi Jody,
How about using two pry bars, on opposite sides of the hub assembly, so as to equalize the pressure and eliminate the angular push that is produced by a one-sided pry? Also, while doing that also use a soft face but heavy hammer to tap on the end of the stub shaft if the problem is also binding on the splines between them. It appears to be a two-person job...great for marital achievement.
Roland