QuestionQUESTION: I have the grey type key
My immobiliser has stuck on AGAIN. The first time it happened i disconnected the battery and it fixed it. The second time i changed the batterys in the fob, all ok. Next time it happened it just wouldnt start, dials wouldnt move etc etc. Got it lifted to chrysler in bishops stortford ( in the UK ). When it got there it didn't start. When they tried to fix it the next day it started, and they have now had it for four days and it starts every time. There auto electrician has said because of the autobus system , if there is a fault electrical it could effect the starting of the car. He has found that my heater matrix wiring is coroded and needs replacing as this is affecting the autobus system. Could my heater be leaking?Chrysler want 1000 pounds ( 1700 dollars ), yes one thousand quid!!!!. Now my problem only happens when i've been driving in HEAVY rain, and after reading comments on other websites i've decided that the water must be getting in an corroding something. Also my engine coolant doesnt last too long so im thinking that the water from the heater is leaking out? and coroding the wiring behind the matrix. What i want, and i've read it somewhere, is to completely disconnect the immobiliser, as this is what is faulty and going wrong. Chrysler wont do it, no auto electrician will do it, but i've read that if you start the car, and disconnect the immobioliser behind the glove box, then this will disconnect the immobiliser and then i will not have problems with the immobiliser, as its not connected any more. And chrysler say they have never had my problem before?????? Obviously they have never looked at this website. Has any one disconected there immobiliser? does it work, and how hard is it to repair my wiring connectors on the heater matrix. Please help! Im here in the uk.
I do have the workshop manual, so if i can find where the heater matrix is, the garage says its just a few connectors? Is it very hard to get to the matrix, i mean time consuming? Because that why I think they are charging so much 1000 pounds, (1700 dollars), and they charge 125 pounds an hour, ( 200 dollars ).
If I could disconnect the immobiliser, then it couldn't ever go wrong!!
ANSWER: Hi Bradleigh,
The immobilizer system is integral with the body computer so there is no way to remove it separately. If you want to not activate it, then give up on using the remote, the power locks, and the keys to secure the doors and rather simply push down the interior door lock mechanical buttons so as not to activate the system.
Once it is alarmed, try using the door key to lock/unlock either/both front doors, and if that doesn't work then try opening up the bonnet (what we call the hood) then go to the rear lift gate and cycle the lock to the unlocked position and back to neutral. Finally if that doesn't clear it, then remove the IOD fuse in the box under the bonnet (#28) for a few minutes.
On the heater issue, I would inquire about exactly where they believe there is a problem. I am not sure what you mean by "matrix" but the heater/AC control panel would be the location where the digital system is connected. So ask whether that is the issue or not and did they actually remove the radio/control panel bezel to inspect the rear of the control panel unit, or is this simply based on a "readout" of the digital data bus memory which is located in the body computer that is on the back side of the fuse box which is under the dash. It may be more likely that there is a leak around the lower corner of the windshield right above the fues box and that water is dripping down on the body computer plugs which temporarily causes short circuit "gremlins". I speak of the fuse box being on the left (driver's side in the USA) but it may be located as a mirror image on your UK vehicle.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: They had the car for 4 days, and when i picked it up, they hadnt put the carpet back properly on the left hand side, up under the dash. They had been up under the dash, behind the radio etc, and told me the wires where the heater matrix, which im assuming is a mini radiator, behind the radio, were corroded, and neede replacing. i spoke to another chrysler garage and questioned them, and they said the part could cost ten pounds, and the other thousand or soo was labour, as it would take so long to get the carpet etc out again, and up behind the dashboard etc. So its mostly labour. Being an electrician i could "re solder" the wires myself, if i knew where they were and how toget to them!!
AnswerI am not getting a visual picture of your UK van. The fuse box and body control must be on the left side, as in the US, and the radio/heater AC controls are in the center, correct? The "matrix" is a term that is new to me. I would wonder whether the heater 'core' is what they mean? That is the heat exchanger so to speak and it is inside the large distribution unit. I doubt it would drip on the heater control panel, but rather would simply leak out of the distribution unit and onto the floor covering. But in any case, what is the current situation with the immobilizer, heater control, etc.? Maybe you have a leak around the windshield that is the source of corrosion, wherever it is?
Roland
