Chrysler Repair: 97 Sebring wont start, 4 digit numbers, coolant temp

Question
QUESTION: Roland,
My sebring started the other day in subzero weather, and while I was letting it warm up it died. It will not start, but turns over well.

I tried some starting fluid to see if it was getting spark and it tried to start but wouldn't keep running, so I knew it was firing.

I can hear the fuel pump kick on and even changed the fuel filter, since I checked the plugs and they seemed dry, as if not getting fuel.

When I was changing the filter, I had my son turn on the key, and the pump seemed to be pumping well. Do you think this could be the map sensor, or something?

97 Sebring LXI 2.5 v6

Any ideas would be appreciated, as I don't want to change the fuel pump if that isn't the problem.

Thanks,
Zac

ANSWER: Hi Zac,
It could be MAP or the coolant temp sensor as it too sets the mixture. But you may be able to get a fault code readout using the ignition key, though this was early in the OBD-II era so I can't be certain. Try using the ignition switch:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch either for the check engine light which remain "on" to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. or for the odometer reading to change and show some 4 digit numbers. If it does the flashing, count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat to assure an accurate count. Then group the numbers in pairs in the order of appearance. The last pair will be 55 which is the code for "end of readout". Then let me know any numbers you get and we'll go from there. Or try www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html for a code translation.
It is much better to have a fault code, than to guess.
If you have an ohmmmeter, check to see if the resistance across the terminals of the coolant temp sensor which is next to the coolant filler neck is reading in the range of 7,000-14,000 ohms which is what is should be when the engine is cold in order to get a proper starting mixture.
The plug for a direct readout with a code reader is under the dash next to the steering column if you can borrow such a reader.
Also check the egr valve in the exhaust gas return line to the intake manifold to be sure that it is stuck ajar. Look at the flange area between the valve body and the vacuum actuator where you will see a rod with a circumferential slot. That is valve stem. Put a tip of a screwdriver in the slot and move the rod back and forth to make sure it moves freely and that the sping closes the stem to a dead stop. If it is sticking, spray some WD-40 on the stem where is enters the valve to free-up the motion.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland,

Well, I bought the reader. And used it according to instructions and it returned a 0 codes message. On the MIL it returned 5 incompletes for catalyst, o2 sensor, heat sensor, fuel system, one more I can't remember but I doubt it is accurate since I can't start the engine. My reader says the engine needs to be running for an accurate MIL reading. But the codes should read without the engine running.

So, I am at a loss for where to go from here. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Zac

ANSWER: Hi Zac,
The MIL approach will tell you codes that were recorded prior to the no start (except for maybe the failure of a cam or crank sensor signal which can be assessed without the engine actually running). I haven't heard of the term "incompletes" so I can't be certain they are accurate. But I would like to know exactly what it said about the MIL's. "Fuel system" is too broad a category to know what to make of it. So tell me more including the one "I can't remember". Anything could be relevant. The catalyst and O2 sensor wouldn't cause a no start so forget those. The "heat sensor" might indeed be the coolant temp sensor or is it? I described how to test that already. And did you look for and check out the egr valve?
Those are my ideas.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland,
Thank you, here is the readings I have.

First it says, MIL off. which my instructions say malfunction indicator lamp should be off and there should be no emission problems. (although it was on before the problem)

OK, the MIL readings are as follows:
Inc: (which my reader says is incomplete, vehicle was not driven enough under proper conditions to complete the monitor.

Catalyst (cat monitor)
evap (Evaporative System Monitor)
o2 snsr (Oxygen sensor monitor)
o2 htr (Oxygen sensor heater monitor)
EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)

Then it says:
3 Ready: which my reader says: vehicle was driven enough under proper conditions to complete the monitor.

Misfire (misfire monitor)
Fuel (fuel system monitor)
Comp (comprehensive components monitor)

I'm adding some info for the benefit of others who might read this later :-)

Anyway Roland, I didn't do the ohm meter check on the coolant temp sensor, I guess maybe I need to get one of those too.

I had a Mech. tell me he thought it was the fuel pump, and it would cost $500.00. I believe he was just guessing. I don't want to go that route.

On the egr value, I'm not sure where to look for the place to put the screw driver in. I'm trying anything you suggest Roland, and do appreciate your advice. I suspect there will be a lot of other Sebring owners who may benefit from what you suggest in this instance, even if they have a different  but related problem.

Thanks for all your help,
Zac  

Answer
Hi Zac,
Listen near the fuel tank for a humming sound that last for about 1 second when you turn the ignition switch to run. Have a helper turn the key while you crouch down and listen under the rear of the car.
On the egr, it is located near the front corner of the  power distribution box (says "fuse" on the cover) just below the box. It is attachec to a pipe that comes from the front exhuast manifold. It has a body that is in the pipe, and a round top. Look between the top and body for an opening with a rod inside. The rod has a slot. Stick the tip of a screwdriver in the slow and move the rod back and forth. Make sure the spring pushes back to a dead stop.
The rest of the "code" information is undecipherable or at least nothing jumps out at me as a cause of no start except the egr valve might not be closed.
Roland