QuestionHi, I have replaced the first three plugs with boshe plat. However my room-mate is convinced that he can get to the back plugs. LOL .. I said okay.. None the less what I need is a diagram maybe emailed to me so that I may see what it looks like as well as him self.... Further more, The car, After reset is no longer reading random misfire or lighting the check engine light at all and the car is running GREAT... However, I dont want a half ass job and I will get greasy from head to toe to make sure it gets done correctly.... I am not replacing the dist. I am waitng for the summer to come for that one as it will take me forever because I will be using the one wire at a time method. I know from past experince that it is an experince in it's self !!! Detailed instructions on reaching the rear plugs on a 96 seabring coupe with a 2.5 L 6 cyl. Is much needed... The less I have to take off the better... Im sure everyone says that.. However... The less I take off is better .. I am learing here, I have tuned up 4 of my cars and have never ran into such a jacked up situation !!! what were thy thinking > ? ....
AnswerHi Jeff,
AFAIK you can't get to those plugs without removing lots of stuff. I haven't worked on it myself, so I can't comment on your friend's beliefs. But here is what the manual says is required:
Here are the steps for removing and replacing the plugs on cyl 1,3,and 5 of the 2.5L V-6:
Disconnect negative cable from auxiliary jumper terminal (I believe this is the ground wire tied to the strut tower on the driver's (left) side of the car).
Unplug the connectors from the MAP sensor and (just to its front) the intake air temp sensor.
Remove the plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of the MAP sensor
Remove the bolt holding the air inlet resonator (the thing with words "multi-point injection") to the intake plenum.
Loosen throttle body air inlet hose clamp
Release snaps holding air cleaner housing cover housing
Remove air cleaner cover and inlet hoses from the engine
Unplug throttle position sensor and idle air control motor connectors.
Pry retainer tab back on throttle cable and slide cable out of bracket. Remove cable from throttle lever.
Slide Speed control cable out of bracker, if equipped. Remove cable from throttle lever.
Remove EGR tube from intake plenum.
Remove plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of EGR tube
Remove bolts holding upper intake plenum and remove plenum
Always remove the ignition cable by grasping at the spark plug boot turning the boot 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion
Prior to removing the spark plug spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug
Remove the spark plug using a quality spark plug socket with a rubber foam insert
Inspect spark plug condition.
To avoid cross-threading start the plug into the cylinder head by hand
Tighten the spark plugs to 20 ft-lbs (28 N-m)
Install ignition cables over spark plugs
Install new gasket and position upper intake plenum. Tighten blots to 13 ft-lbs (18 N-m)
Install bolts at plenum support brackets (Same torque as above)
Install EGR tube at plenum. Tighten EGR tube to intake manifold plenum screws to 8 ft-lbs (11 N-m)
Install throttle and speed control (if equipped) cables
Attach electrical connectors to sensors.
Install air inlet tube clamp to to 25+/- 5 inch pounds (3 +/- 1 N-m)
Connect negative terminal to auxiliary jumper terminal.
There are some figures that show the parts which might be helpful but I don't have a document scanner. If you want the xerox copy of the pages let me know along with a postal address and I'll mail them to you. Best of luck with the project.
Roland
