Chrysler Repair: Intrepid Wont start, dash lights, switc

Question
QUESTION: My car 94 3.3 liter died suddenly, gages and red dash lights flashing on/off yet restarted.  Ran OK to get home.  Hasn't started consistently since.  If it starts and I turn it off it won't restart.  Can't get a DTC because the PCM won't repsond even though ASD RD/WT shows power going in to pin 3.  There's no intial noise from the fuel pump and none of the dash lights go on when I try to start  it as usually happens.  I checked the ASD and fuel pump relays, both are OK to specs and both positions have power in the distribution center(12 Volts).  Yet the fuel pump fuse shows less than two volts across its two clips with the ignition on.  Any ideas? Thanks

ANSWER: Hi Ed,
I am having difficulty understanding some of what you report. Are you sure the check engine light works when you turn the key to run, and then the engine starts (and if so then the light goes off)?  
You do hear the fuel pump and the dash lights do come on when it starts, correct. But when it won't start then neither the fuel pump nor the warning light come on, correct?
As regards the ASD and fuel pump relays, you say that they have "power in the distribution center" do you mean that they are getting 12V on the red/white, or that they also are activated and passing that voltage on as they are intended to, or that they are not doing that?
What fuel pump fuse are you speaking of (what number or letter)?
The immediately previous question to yours was from an owner of a '93 Concorde with roughly the same problem. Here is my response:
"The lack of some voltage to the cluster that is necessary to operate the warning lights is an important clue. I would be inclined to check the following wires at the ignition swtich when the key is in the "run" position and you don't have lights/no start: black/white, black/orange, dark blue, and red/white. If you can't get to the ignition switch easily, then check under the dash fuses: 17, 18, 10, 21 to make sure that they have 12V on both sides when the switch is in "run".
All those should show 12V, if any one doesn't then let me know, as it is either the ignition switch or a fuse that supplies whichever section is "cold"."
The wiring diagrams for the cluster are unforunately not exactly clear as to what is the voltage supply for the warning lamps. But in any case, my suspicion is that one of the sections of the ignition switch is flakey. So check those fuses and let me know what you find at the time when it won't start.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland,  I checked the relays with the ignition in run position.  I didn't check them with start condition.  I'll have to do that.  If I heard the fuel pump the car would start.  When I didn't it wouldn't. Checking it for DTC while running it showed no trouble codes.  If it wasn't running it would say "Vehicle not responding" even with the ignition in on or run position.  The fuel pump fuse is # 18.  The ignition switch seems like a good place to check.  Thank  you for the help.

Answer
Hi Ed,
Yes, check #14,18,19 and 20 fuses because those are all supplied on the dark blue wire from the ignition switch. That section of the switch gets its power in turn from fuse A in the power distribution box under the hood, but it also supplies the starter motor relay so if that was still functioning then fuse A is not the issue.
Good luck with this, I hope it is something as "simple" as a bad section in the ignition switch.
You are welcome, and thanks for the rating.
Roland