Chrysler Repair: 1994 Concorde rough running problem when warm, chrysler concorde, 1994 chrysler concorde

Question
QUESTION: Hello I have a 1994 Chrysler concorde with the 3.3 v6 Before I start throwing parts at it I want some suggestions when the car is cold it runs like a dream but when it gets hot it starts to spit and spudder if you try to hit the excellerator it feels like its just going to stall out now there are no lights on the dash I hooked my scanner up to it and there are no codes so on my scanner I checked the o2 voltage when its running fine the voltage flucuates between .08-.84v but when its running bad both o2 sensors are stuck at .04v I thought it might be a o2 sensor but why am i not getting a engine code have you ran across this problem thanks
Eric

ANSWER: Hi Eric,
I can't say why you don't have any codes with your scanner. Maybe you can get some codes via the check engine light if you can get the cluster working again. Check fuse #9 under the dash which provides power to the cluster.
The 0.04V means the oxygen sensors are saying that the mixture is lean, so probably the computer is enriching the mixture in an attempt to correct that. I would suspect the 02 sensors are bad if they are original/old and you really do have a rich mixture.
Roland

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QUESTION: well thanks for the reply roland here is what I got now I was tearing into the car yesterday night to see If I could see something visible and well when you cycle the key the check engine light does come on like it is supposed to so I have decided to diconnect the o2 sensors while it was running to see if anything changed runnability wise and when I pulled them it did not change anything and still no engine codes so now I am leaning more to either map or still a o2 sensor what do you think
thank
 Eric

Answer
Hi Eric,
If the MAP were bad it would not run well when cold either, but you initially said that was not the case. I am still uncertain why you don't get any fault codes, not even a 55 which should always appear if the controller memory and logic were any good. You may want to try a used controller if you can get one from the identical powertrain/year.
Because of the temperature dependence of the fault I would rather suggest that you check the coolant temperature sensor which has two wires (tan/black, black/light blue) and is located near the thermostat housing. See if it reads 7-14,000 ohm when the engine is cold, and then check it when the engine is at operating temperature at which point the resistance across the sensor itself with the plug disconnected should be 700-1,000 ohm. If it hasn't dropped significantly then replacing that sensor should solve the problem. After that, the O2 sensors would be a next guess. But without confirming codes it is a bit of an investment with no assurance of a return.
Roland