QuestionTwo weeks ago my car began to only start after the second time I would turn the key. Today, it wouldn't start, wouldn't start, then started but the rpms were going up and down as if it had a mind of its own. I tried to push on gas and keep it at two rpms but it immediately stopped. Last week I had my battery checked so I know its not that. I explained to Dad and he said it may be the fuel pump? CHrysler expert help!!!!!!!!!!!!1
AnswerHi Candace,
I would not blame the fuel pump yet. Chances are more that the mixture of air to fuel is not correct so that it why it runs poorly.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve attached to the pipe by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start. Ask Dad to help locate the valve and try lubricating the stem.
The other useful diagnostic test would be to find out whether the engine control module has detected a fault and stored a numbered fault code in its memory. I am not certain whether you can get the readout yourself using the ignition key or not. Try turning the key "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the odometer window of the speedometer to see if the mileage is replaced by any 4 digit numbers which are the fault codes. Make a note and let me know what they are. Another way is to have the memory readout with a fault code reader. If there is Autozone Parts store near you they will often do that for free. An independent shop is another way, and if you call around you should be able to get it readout for about $40. Once you get the numbers ask what they are specifically, what they mean, what they propose to do, and how much to repair. Then before giving the go ahead if you aren't certain what they said is right, fair, or economic, write me back and tell me the numbers and we can check that against the shop manual.
But the egr valve is my first priority for what you describe.
Roland
