Chrysler Repair: Battery, tire replacement, stumbles when accelerating, chrysler sebring convertible, 4 digit numbers


Question
I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. Seems everything is wrong at the moment! 1st: the battery is dead, what battery should I get? 2nd: Tires need replacing, terrible shimmy in the wheel, should I have an alignment done before I replace my tires and do I have to purchase the same tires I have on there now? 3rd: Because I have often let my gas tank get down real close to empty, I now experience a sputtering when I step on the gas and the car has kind of lost its zip, what have I done?

Answer
Hi Susan,
When I shop for a battery I usually buy one with the least cost per month, that is, divide the cost by the warranty period and use that as the basis of comparison shopping. Of course you need to get the same physically-sized battery fir the car, which will be shown in the catalog. I don't think there is any brand that stands out so I buy based on price. But if your old battery is still under warranty and is fairly priced you might get a small rebate to apply to a replacement, but the bottom line is how much per month of warranty am I going to pay?
I would definitely have the front end checked for alignment and any worn parts if you have a shimmy. It is best to stick with the tire size that the car is designed for. The brand is open for choice, but I like the Yokohama Touring tire on my similarly-sized LeBaron coupe as your Sebring. They are very smooth riding, round, and handle well.
On the engine stumbling while accelerating, I would check to see if the engine controller's memory has stored any fault codes that might have been set due to the stumble. That would identify the cause. You can ofter get a free readout at an Autozone Parts store or if not an independent shop will do it for around $40 on a 'special'. If they find any codes (which are 4-digit numbers) ask them for the number, the title of the code, what needs to be done, and how much? Then write back and we can compare notes against the shop manual. It may be too that code will self-readout if you turn your ignition key: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that action in 5 seconds or less elapsed time, then watch for the mileage reading in the odometer window to be replaced by a 4-digit number(s) which would be the codes for the problem. If it doesn't work, then go to the parts store or a shop. I would not attribute the problem to the fuel being run low, but you might help things by purchasing a can of gas tank additive that disperses any condensed water in the tank to minimize the stumble if that is the cause.
Good luck on your choices.
Roland