Chrysler Repair: 3.3L V-6: no start, code 11, crank sensor, straight pins

Question
Reply:

Hi Roland,
Thanks for the speedy reply yesterday.
Well I went and erased the codes and did only get codes 12 & 55.  However, after I started the van and let it run until it died again (8 min.)
I then cranked it over and it wouldn’t start.  Then I rechecked the codes and now I do have 11, 12 & 55 again.
I did check the orange wire at the crank sensor before I started and it did in fact have 9 volts.
I then checked again after it would not start and now has no voltage.
I checked the 10 pin connector by the battery and while checking for power, I was wiggling the harness and did get power.  
I then pulled the battery and bracket out to get at the harness as I thought there must be a broken wire there.
But I found nothing.
But now I still have power at the orange wire, and still no start.
What's up with that?  I am still wondering if maybe I am looking in the wrong direction and maybe something else is shutting down the power, as the van will only run for approx. 10 min. when it is cold and after quitting it takes a few hours before it will restart again.  It's like it is something heating up and cutting the power.  What do you think?
I’m at wits end.  However, the van is very fuel efficient this way.

Actually after wiggling those wires and playing with the ASD relay, it won't start at all.

Thanks again,
Mike  

Answer
Hi Mike,
You have to go with the code and the power supply issues. I would verify that you have 8V on the orange wires at both the cam and the crank sensor plugs. Then I would try checking that you have a signal that pulses between 5V and 0.3V when you turn the engine over by hand using a socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt, measuring between the gray/black and black/light blue wires (use fine straight pins to pierce the insulation to reach the conductors) of the crank sensor, and also between the tan/yellow and black/light blue on the cam sensor, doing this of course with the ignition in the "run" position. The voltage should pulse several times for each full rotation of the crankshaft as you measure each sensor. If that is shown to be the case then the engine should start because you will have a spark signal and an injector pulse signal, in theory. It seems to me there is something flaky in the wiring of those sensors or the sensors themselves. By testing it with the plugs connected and using the pins to reach the conductors you should be able to really verify that you are getting those sensor signals or not.
Roland