Chrysler Repair: 1998 sebring not starting or even cranking over, starter solenoid, jumper wire


Question
Hi Roland,
As I see you certainly know your Chryslers. My 98 Sebring was working fine, then I went out and tried to start it and nothing happened. Lights and everything inside works just it doesn't even turn over. I checked all the fuses and nothing. I want to try boosting it next to eliminate the battery problem, never know might be enough juice to run everything but the starter. After that I want to follow the power cable to the starter and then if thats fine after testing the power at the starter then replace the starter. You wouldn't have any diagrams available on-line? Also, how often should the timing belt be replaced in my 2.5L V6 LXi? Theres 155,000kms on it now. Is there any way of telling if it has been changed already? I also have a squel at random times, theres no pattern to it, it's definately a belt squeal, but where to start looking for the squeal? if you can lend any expertise that would be wonderful.
Thanks,
Chad

Answer
Hi Chad,
The starting circuit is fairly straightforward. The master switch is the starter motor relay in the power distribution center under the hood. I would begin there and have a helper try the key to start it while you listen for the relay to click or not. It is one of the four at one end of the box. If it clicks then I would go to the starter itself and see if you get 12V on the brown wire at the starter solenoid when the helper tries the key. If not then the relay has burned internal points and needs to be replaced. If you do, but the starter solenoid/motor doesn't respond, then check to see if you have a good connection of the heavy red wire from the battery to the starter. But be careful that wire can carry a lot of juice. You could if that checks out try jumping from the red wire to the brown wire post at the starter to see if starter will respond as that is the direct test of the starter motor. But again make sure you don't ground the jumper wire while you are trying to touch it to the brown wire post of the solenoid.
If the relay doesn't click at all, then either the ignition switch is faulty or the park/neutral safety switch is not actually in park or neutral which also will prevent the relay from closing. So try moving the shifter lever slightly to either side of the normal P or N position to see if that will cause the starter to fire.
You can check the ignition switch by removing the relay and measuring for voltage to appear on the pin socket which is closest to the long end of the box (where all the fuses are) when the key is turned to "start". And you can also check the wiring from the relay to the starter and the starter itself by jumping between the two pin sockets that are side by side next to the outside of the box as those are the wires that relay point connect when it is activated.
That would show you if everything from the relay output to the starter motor is OK, and if so then the issue has to be the relay, ignition switch, or P/N safety switch. There is only one fuse that you need to make sure is good, #8 (20 amp) in the power center which supplies the 12v to the ignition switch.
The timing belt can be inspected by removing the timing belt cover on the top left (closest to the front of the car)timing belt cover and  cranking it a little at a time to see its condition all the way around. The nominal life is about 200K km but inspecting it carefully for any signs of breakdown may allow you to keep going with it. No damage is done if it breaks with that 2.5 engine, but you will be stranded at that point. If you have the 2.4L there is a definite recommended changeout at 168K km and that one will be damaged if it breaks.  
Belt squeal is usually from an accessory drive belt being loose, so check the various external belt tensions.
Roland