QuestionQUESTION: the car will turn over and has fuel but will not start what could be wrong
ANSWER: Hi Erik,
Probably one of the sensors for the spark system. You might want to check for spark if you have a spare plug to insert in one of the spark plug wires' caps and then hold the threads on the cylinder head (grasping the rubber insulation) while a helper cranks and you observe for spark to jump the plug gap.
It is very useful to get the fault code readout from the engine controller using the ignition key: "turn it on-off-on-off-on and leave it on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. The check engine light will remain "on" but then begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat to assure an accurate count. Group the numbers is pairs in the order of appearance to form the 2-digit code numbers. 55 is always the last because that means "end of readout". The code 11 means the crank sensor is bad, the code 54 means the cam sensor is bad. You can get a code translation at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
Let me know what codes you get and we can take it from there if the repair isn't obvious.
Roland
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QUESTION: ok i did the code thing it when as follows flash,pause flash flash pause flash pause flash pause flash flash flash flash flash pause flash flash flash flash flash then it stoped so how do i read this and what does it mean if you know what that code is?
AnswerHi Erik,
That would be 12,11, and 55. The 12 means that sometime in the recent past the voltage to the engine controller was disconnected (maybe when changing the battery, for example) and that is not relevant to a no start. The 11 code definitly is: crankshaft position sensor signal is not present at the controller. That sensor is located near the rear engine/transmission interface. Its socket and wires is all that you see of it when it is installed, located underneath the distributor. It is held in place by a bolt, and the tip of the sensor is in close proximity to the edge of the flex plate which is what connects the engine to the input of the torque converter. You might want to get the new crankshaft sensor first so you know what you are looking for (~ $75). Then notice that the position (depth) of the sensor in the bell housing is adjustable due to a slotted fitting for the bolt to pass thru. Also notice there is a paper stuck to the business end of the new sensor, don't remove it. You position the sensor so the spacer rests against the surface of the flexplate hidden from view in the bell housing, then you tighten down the bolt to about 8 foot-pounds to maintain that contact. When the engine spins the paper wears away and the tip of the sensor is close but not in contact with the surface. When you go to remove the plug on the old sensor, carefully lift the plastic retaining tab so as not to break it. The wire colors should be orange/white, black/light blue, and gray/black. Once you replace that sensor you should have spark, fuel, and ignition of the mixture.
That should get you going again. The old codes will self-erase after 50-100 ignition key cycles, or you can disconnect the battery for about 1/2 minute. Then when you recheck you will only read 12 and 55. Any new codes will show up later if and when they occur.
Roland
