Chrysler Repair: Starter motor wont engage the engine:1993 New Yorker, ball joints, trans fluid


Question
QUESTION: The ball joint on the driver's side broke, and when it broke, it pulled the axle out with it, loosing trans fluid.  We disconnected the battery.  We replaced both sides, ball joints, brakes, calipers, and struts, changed the oil and filter, and added all fluids, but not the trans fluid because we didn't start the car yet.  We connected the battery and the 4 ways were flashing, apparently due to the factory alarm, but the horn was not blowing.  We were able to stop the 4 ways from flashing by unlocking the passenger's side door.  But the car won't start.  We disconnected the battery again and cleaned the terminals, when it was reconnected, the 4 ways flashing again.  We tried resetting the computer by turning the key to the on position then off position 3-4 times, but it still won't start.  We set the alarm, the turned it off, and still won't start.  We checked for any damaged wires by the axle that was pulled out, and by the other side.  I checked the Starter by jumping the positive terminal on the starter to the solenoid, the starter motor will run, but won't engage into the flywheel.  Took the Starter to Auto Zone, and it tests good. I tested for power on starter, and alternator, have power there even when key is in off position.  The car always started fine before the ball joint broke.  Would you have any ideas of what my problem could be?  Thanks allot.  Greg
ANSWER: Hi Greg,
I am not quite clear about whether you have been able to get the engine to crank over with the starter motor. If so then I would try the fault code check to see if there is a reason for it not to start even though it isn't turning over now. "On-off-on-off-on and leave on", using the ignition key in an elapsed time of 5 seconds or less. Then watch the check engine light which remains on to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat to verify accuracy. Then group the numbers in pairs to form 2-digit numbers in the order they appeared. The last number is always 55, which means end of readout. You can get a code description at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html  Or write me back to discuss what they mean.
If you can't get the starter to engage the ring gear on the flex plate, then I wonder if the battery might not have sufficient voltage to kick the bendix gear into the ring gear. Another possibility is that the flexplate/ring gear was bent in the malfunction, but lets hope that is not the case. You might try turning the engine by hand using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, maybe a half a turn, then try the starter again to see if the non-mating of the starter bendix gear with the ring gear is position-dependent.
Other than that and charging the battery up I can't think of any other reason that you can't get the starter to engage when the motor proper is spinning.
The issue with the theft alarm has nothing to do with the starter motor problem. What it will do is allow the engine to be cranked, and to start, but then it cuts off the spark signal/fuel pump/injectors after 3 seconds of running when it is in the alarmed state. So if that isn't the issue, the alarm system is not your problem.
Please clarify for me if I have misunderstood.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Ron,
When the key is turned to the start position, the starter will not do anything.  If the wires are jumped on the solenoid the starter motor will turn, but not engage.  All electrical features work - turn signals, hazards, power windows, power headlamp cover, ect.  The has not cranked over at all.  Thank you for your quick response.  Tomorrow I will try to get the fault codes.  I did not have any problems starting the car before the ball joint broke, and the other work I mentioned before.  One way or the other, I will let you know the outcome.  

Answer
Hi Greg,
The fault codes are irrelevant to the starter problem. You have two issues with the starter. First the non-engagement of the bendix gear with the ring gear when you jump start at the solenoid. Either the battery is too weak and needs to be charged, the starter motor is not mounted flat to its mounting surface so that the bendix is not lined up to mesh with the ring gear, or the ring gear is somehow not in the proper position due to damage of the flex plate in the accident. So I would take them in that order until you can get it to crank using the jump start approach.
Then you have the issue of getting the key to operate the starter. That could be several reasons. Go to the starter relay and its socket located in the power distribution box under the hood.  First I would check that you have power to the relay on one of its 4 pin sockets all the time. When you find the hot one, jump to the pin directly across from it and that should activate the solenoid on the starter. If not, then the brown wire from the relay socket to the solenoid is open. If that works out, then the question is why doesn't the relay close those same 2 pins when you use the key. One of the other 2 pins should get 12V when you turn the ignition to start position. If not, then the wire from the switch or the switch itself is bad. If you find one pin that is responding that way to the ignition key, then check the pin that is opposite to it. It should be grounded (0 ohms resistance measured to the - post of the battery) when the trans is in neutral or park. If it is then you should hear the relay close when you turn the key to the start position. If not then the relay is bad. If that opposite pin isn't grounded in park and neutral then either the shift lever is not adjusted properly (that adjustment depends upon which body you have there, so let me know*) and you should try moving the shift lever slightly to either side of the neutral setting while trying the starter position to verify that is the problem. If that doesn't check out then I would test for continuity from that pin to the brown/yellow wire at the neutral/park safety switch at the trans. There is a connector along the way that may be disconnected.
So that is how to approach this as far as I can see.
Roland
*Is your car the old C-body style, or the LH body that was brought out in '93?