QuestionMy 200 T&C (3.3L) failed to start one evening. Once before on a very cold morning about 2 months before, it did struggle before starting. Otherwise, it had no signs before.
When the key is turned, it would make clicking relay noise, but nothing would turn over. Everything electrical worked, so I figured it was not battery. But I tried jumping anyways. Jumpstarting from another car worked.
Since then it struggles to start. I'd have to control gas pedal a bit to get it turn over, because it would not start without it.
Checked the battery, it was OK, and I even brought in a battery charger and charged the battery full before starting. It improves a bit, but start is not very smooth.
Another maybe unrelated symptom is that when I get it to start after struggling with gas pedal a bit, speedometer and tachometer would stop functioning. Other gauges all seem fine but these two. I know they get their signals from the transmission. That got me thinking that I have a small transmission fluid leak from the bottom. I have been topping it off for some time. On cold mornings, it would not shift well when the liquid level is low.
that's it. Transmission problem, speedometer/tachometer problem, and now starting problem. What should I do?
AnswerHi Tom,
One way to get some direction would be to have the engine and transmission controller memories readout for any stored fault codes that the systems may have recognized. That costs about $40 or you can often get a free readout at Autozone parts stores, I am told. Then find out the 4-digit numbers, what they mean, and the suggested fix/cost. Then write back and I can give you my input.
The battery could be charged full, but still not deliver the cold-starting amps necessary to turn the motor over rapidly enough for a good start. So also check the age of the battery (compared to the warranty period, for example it could be the original battery now 6+ years old) and maybe buy a hygrometer float test tool to measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte at 'full charge'. Your charger can give the appearance of a fully charged battery (low current draw) but not be able to give you the power necessary to do the job.
I would note that the trans does put out the speedo signal whereas the tachometer signal comes from the engine ignition system. So I doubt that the trans is involved in the gauge issues. Maybe it has to do with the battery not putting out full voltage.
Nonetheless, keep your eye on the trans fluid level but do not overfill it as that can do similar damage as too little. If it is a leak around the pan you might want to tighten its bolts (14 foot-pounds).
You might do well to take a look at the exhaust gas recirculation valve, located in the small pipe from the right exhaust manifold to intake manifold, to verify that the stem inside the saddle between the valve body and the vacuum actuator moves freely. The stem has a circumferential slot that you can lever back and forth with the tip of a screwdriver (against spring action which is used to close the valve). If the valve is not moving freely and closing tightly then spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the body.
Those are things that might give you some improvement.
Roland
