QuestionIf it is in fact the seal, and I get the fluid and filter changed, do you know an average amount of $ I might be looking at? As far as the tension on the bolts, or even the repair if needed, I am unable to do that. I will have to take it in, thats why I asked you first, so that in the event they quote me, I might know how much is "too much". thanks!
christopher
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The text above is a follow-up to ...
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I am a college student that has to make it on his own up here in Denton Texas. I came across your answers and it looked like you know a LOT about chryslers and tranny problems. I was wondering if you mmight help me too as I am not great with car repair issues and am unfamiliar with mechanics in the area, cause quite honestly, I have had *NO* problems since I bought this vehicle over 2 years ago.
It has 111,000 miles approx. A couple months ago I noticed it had a leak, small, and it needed fluid cause it was almost dry, and started acting like it was slipping occassionally. I immediately filled it with fkuid, which I am unsure how much is enough if it reads LOW or dry. ? It just started slipping again, and yes, it was VERY LOW AGAIN. I checked underneath the car, and there is a small reservoir or "pan" in the middle front area, where the leak comes from. It has got fluid on it, and has drips from it. Its a slow leak, but its leaking out anyways.
I am worried that the leak is getting more and more as time passes. I just put a quart of fluid in it, dexron mercon III, my manual seemed to say its ok, eventhough it called for a "Type F",,,it didnt read that on the bottle.
Do you know what else I should look for, or do? I have hardly any cash, and geeesh if this is going to be expensive I'd like to know ahead of time what the issues could be from somsone like you before I take it in, even though its sorta obvious.
Think it could just be a pan seal?
THANK YOU,
Christopher
wondertopher@yahoo.com
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Hi Christopher,
It is good that you are looking into this. If the leak is coming from around the pan, which is held in place by bolts, then you could try tightening up the bolts as the first remedy. The torque spec is 165 inch-pounds or 13 foot pounds, so use a torque wrench to get that level of torque on the bolts, being very careful not to break off a bolt head. Then wipe the trans area around that plate and up the sides so that when you check it again you can tell if it leaking from above the pan seal or out the side of the pan seal itself should it continue to leak. It it continues to leak, and it appears to be from the pan/trans interface then you need to remove the pan and 'catch' about 4-5 quarts of trans fluid that is going to drain out. While you have the pan off, it would be reasonable to also replace the filter and o-ring seal because it is accessible at this time Then clean the surfaces of the pan and the trans, use some RTV sealant around the pan (a 1/8" bead, and a small amount around the underside of each pan bolt) and torque the pan back in place. Then if the fluid is cleanly caught pour it back in the trans through the dipstick tube. If the fluid smells burnt or is grimy then use 4 quarts of new fluid, check that the level is 1/8" below the Add mark (because it is cold), run the engine and drive it and then check the fluid level on a level surface with the engine idling. Do not overfill. The level should increase and be in the HOT region when it is fully warmed up.
On the question of the trans fluid, there is some confusion here. Most of the shop manuals and fellow owners say not to use Dexron. If you only have added one quart, out of a total of 11 quarts, so far, that may be ok. However, I would in the future only use Mopar 7176 ATF +3. If your owners manual says Dexron is ok, so be it, but I have not seen such a statement in any Chrysler publication up thru '98. If the trans shudders when shifting then I would be inclined to have the entire trans fluid flushed out by what is called a power flush and replace all 11 quarts in that manner with 7176 from a dealer.
You have on the line about a $1500-2000 repair situation if the trans fails. And it has been long standing to not use Dexron in these transmissions. So stop using it, and be alert for any abnormal behavior which might be due to the Dexron used earlier. Just keep the fluid level in the Hot level when measured after driving it.
Roland
AnswerHi Christopher,
I am such a do-it-yourselfer I am really hard pressed to tell you a cost. I would ask around to a dealer and at least one independent (not natiowide franchise) transmission shop for a pan drop/filter change job on your trans using Chrysler 7176 ATF +3 or equivalent fluid for the job. Then enquire about the same except doing a power flush to totally change the 11 quarts of fluid, just to have a comparison. Most states require that shops give a potential customer a firm estimate for free, and to be changed only with customer's approval and justification for any increase.
If you have any friends with mechanical skills, mainly a socket for the bolt heads and a torque wrench then you could try that with the help of a friend in a few minutes. Beyond that you could do the shop if the bolts don't seem loose.
I know the trans fluid is pricey (some one told me $10/quart at a dealer, but it should be cheaper by the gallon and equivalent non-Chrysler fluid could be less also).
I would guesstimate no more than $100 for the simple drop, and 250 for the power flush including fluid.
Let me know, please what you find out.
Roland
