QuestionOk i did the on off thing and all i got was 55 and i check that web site you gave me and all it said was 55 stood for "end of codes" What does that mean that i have no codes on my computer. In my research i found a site the EXACTLY describes my problem "The accumulation of deposits eventually leads to a a lean air fuel mixture in the combustion cycle, which causes engine detonations, knocking, loss of power and a drop in your gas mileage." This is really confusing. Some one told me that my cylinders are droping, and someone else told me that i need to disconnect my exhaust from the cat. What should i believe? I just think its my fuel injectors. if i go to a muffler shop would they charge me to check the catalytic converter?
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I have been having problems with my 1995 chrysler cirrus 2.5 v6. I cannot drive over 70mph within a 5 min time period. The car will begin to decrease in speed as i try to accelerate, then it starts knocking then shuts off. when i pop the hood i smell a burning smell n sometimes theres a lil smoke at the back of my engine along the top. I have gotten my transmission rebuilt cuz we thought thats what it was...nope, got a tune up,nope still didnt get it, changed my O2 senser that made my check engine lite go off. So now my car is to a point where it can be on the last white line of gas before the red zone and starts to act like i have no gas. I only put 93 gas in my car either from shell, bp, or cheveron. I always put fuel injector cleaner in my tank but now its coming to a point where it doesnt matter. From My research its my fuel injectors but im not sure how to go about it of just getting new fuel injectors or something just needs to be physically cleaned out or whatever. Can you advise me on making the right choice of what to do?
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Hi Chantal,
I have a couple of suggestions:
First do a self readout of the engine controller memory for the presence of any fault codes. Use the ignition key: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing this in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch for either messages to appear in the odometer window, or for the check engine light to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to assure accuracy. Then group the numbers in pairs in the order of appearance to form two-digit numbers which are the fault code. Then write back with the results and we'll go from there. Or you can get a translation at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
The second: have a local independent muffler shop check the catalytic converter for its possibility of being partially plugged up. There are ports in the exhaust pipe to measure for this problem. The symptom is an inability to accelerate when you are driving on the highway because the exhaust can not be efficiently cleared if the converter is impairing the flow. If that proves to be true, then change the converter.
I'll await word of your results.
Roland
AnswerHi Chantal,
The fact of no codes other than 55 means that there are no faults that the engine controller can detect. That of course doesn't tell you about things it can't detect. You said that the car will not accelerate or maintain power on the highway. And my response was based upon that description. There is no way of know for sure whether the exhaust system is impaired in its ability to expel the exhaust gases, but what you described is consistent with that being the cause. What you now way are the EXACT symptoms are not what you told me. And I doubt that a build up of deposits in the combustion chambers is what is going on, particularly if you drive the car on the highway regularly and add injector cleaner that you described. It could be a problem with fuel pressure being below normal due to a failing fuel pump or pressure regulator. That too could be measured. But only by measurement of the catalytic converter's resistance to the passage of the exhaust gas and measurement of the fuel pressure will you know the answer. Call the various exhaust shops and inquire. I would stay away from MIDAS and other franchise shops because they are likely to try and sell you something whether you need it or not. Ask each if they have the equipment to access the converter, can they show you the measurements that will tell you if the converter is your problem, describe to them the symptoms, and ask how much the test will be, and how much is the cost of a new converter if necessary? Then decided who to go to, or alternatively ask at shop that you trust the same questions about the fuel supply pressure and the injectors. All I can offer is that if this is the original converter and the car has a lot of miles on it, then it would be reasonable to check the converter. The smoke coming out at the rear of the engine is another clue that things are overheating in the region of the exhaust system whose first section after the exhaust manifold is the catalytic converter. The converter has a honeycomb coated with catalytic chemicals, and the holes in the honeycomb can plug up or the whole honeycomb can become loosen and twist off-axis so that the gases can't pass through it efficiently.
No Guarantees can be offered, just advice.
Good luck on getting to the bottom of this. Let me know what happens, please.
Roland
