Chrysler Repair: Bad Miss/Rough Driving on 96 sebring LXi, exhaust gas recirculation, mechanical function

Question
HI, I have a 96 sebring Lxi, V6, 2.5L, Vin N..i recently started getting a MIL showing up on my car, and i went to get a reading on it, it says it multiple misfires, in all cylinders..then it started to stall and would just die.. k, after that i have changed the distributor, ignotion wires, plugs twice, filters, and the front O2 sensor..the car runs ok, afterwards but still comes with the trouble codes, and now the car seldom starts, and it is stalling and hesitating bad, i have taken it to several local mechanics, they have done mny tests, including fuel, distributor, sensors, flush the injectors, and wat all the mechanics told me is they cant figure what the problem is and why is acting like that. one said it could be the PCM, or the something called the GROUNDS.. i dont know what that is, but i know wat PCM is and i do know that is a lot of work and money.. I love this car, and i would love to know wat it is that is causing this problem, i have spent lots of money just towing the car around and doing tests just to be told it cant be fixed.. please pleae, help me if you can. Thanks

Answer
Hi Fred,
There are indeed a plethora of possible causes for a multiple signal misfire and it sounds like the mechanics have looked a most of them. I have the trouble shooting manual for the 2.5L V-6 and can share that info with you. I assume that this is the convertible, if not tell me otherwise. But before going into all the details let me make one suggestion, a part that is often overlooked: the egr valve (exhaust gas recirculation and if it is sticking slightly ajar it can mess up the mixture resulting in misfires). You can check this yourself.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle.
Let me know if that is helpful or not. And let me know the current trouble codes if you can get them yourself using the ignition key and the check engine light: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing this in 5 seconds or less time. Then count the number of flashes before each pause of the check engine light. Repeat. Then group in pairs to form two-digit numbers that are the fault codes.
If that doesn't produce any codes, then go to Autozone parts store where you can get a free readout. Or shop around for a low cost readout, then tell me the code numbers specifically that you get.
Roland