Chrysler Repair: 99 Concorde 2.7 wont start after changing timing belt, media mail, color stripes

Question
Hello Roland,
I checked the cam and crank sensors as you said and they both go from 5v to 0v. The cam did it 3 to 1 and the crank did it a lot more. I took the coils out and ohmed the coils on the tabs where the green and the (brown & one of 6 color stripes) plug in and they were all .002 ohms. Which is the primary side? How do you test it to ground? With the key on I see 12v momentarily on the Green wire as I hand crank the motor . I am still not seeing anything on the Brown/multi wire. I checked it for volts and for ground as the motor was turned. I ohmed all six of the green/brown wires back to the PCM connector and they are all OK. I went and bought a new PCM but everything still checks out the same. I heard about the sentry key immobilizer system. That will stop your car if you disconnect the battery. They say if you have a grey colored plastic key you have it but mine is black. Bottom line is with a new PCM I still have no spark. Did you get your shop manual yet? I really need some help on this one.

Answer
Another couple of ideas: when you are checking for spark I wonder if you are still holding the threads of the plug against the cylinder head? And is it possible that you have forgotten to reattach any wires such as the ground strap to the cylinder head? I would also suggest that you use the original PCM for now because you can't be sure the new one doesn't need to be programmed if you do have the SKIM system.
Roland



Hi William,
No manual received yet (it is coming by media mail). I am unfamiliar with the sentry key system but I do have a description of it from the '98 van manual. My proposal would be to xerox copy and postal mail you the pages from the '98 2.7/3.2L powertrain diagnostic manual which covers the no start situation as it regards the coil/spark part of the issue. Also I would send you the part about the sentry key system from the other manual. When you get the pages just send me back unused postal stamps calculated as 8 cents per copy side plus my postage costs. I really think this is the most efficient way to help in this "no trouble code/no start" situation. In the meantime it would be good to verify that you are getting 12v on the green wire while you are cranking it over with the starter motor as that is the power supply for the primary winding of each cop. If that is not happening, then the ASD is not closing or has bad internal points if it is closing. You could by-pass it by jumping across its teriminal (or just jump to the wire); that would hard wire 12v to the green (shown as dark green/light green in the troubleshoot manual) wire and then see if it will start. It shouldn't be left that way, but as a test it is safe as far as I can see.
So if you agree, send me a postal mailing address and I'll copy the pages tomorrow morning and mail them to you in the Saturday afternoon pick up. Use the "rate the expert" tab because I will probably be "maxed out". There is a place for comments there where you can list your address.
Roland