Chrysler Repair: No spark: 1999 Chrysler Cirrus, crank pulley, sensor signals

Question
I have a 2.5L V-6 1999 Chrysler Cirrus.  I had a water leak from the steel tube under the intake.  I replaced the steel tube.
When we were done putting every thing back together, the car would not start.  It will crank, but it will not start.  We replaced the crank sensor, distributor, cap, and rotor.  We still do no get any spark.  We are completely stumped.  We looked over all of the fuses, and the wiring.  It seems that those are fine.  

Should we check any other places?  Anything will help!
Thanks.

Answer
Hi Douglas,
First I would see if you can get a readout of fault codes that may be stored in the engine controller. Although this may require a  readout box, some years and models still retained a self-read provision. Use the ignition key: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" completing this in an elapsed time of 5 seconds or less. Then watch for any messages that may appear in the odometer window of the dash in the form of four digit numbers preceeded by a P. Then let me know what they are for directions.
Then I would check the single wire plug at the distributor (although it has 2 pins, only one wire). Might you have overlooked plugging it back in?  Check with a voltmeter or 12V neon glowlight that when you are cranking the engine that there is voltage when measuring between that disconnected wire and a nearby metal surface (ground). If there is then the coil has its energy source and also the crank and cam sensors are working; if not then it could be a sensor or the autoshutdown relay is not closing. Check the voltage again, only this time just turn the ignition to the "on" position and see if you get voltage for about 1 second. If so then the ASD relay is working, if not then it may be failing to close. If you get the 1 second of voltage but not when you are cranking it over then a sensor is suspect.
The sensor signals can be checked with a voltmeter while you hand crank the engine using a socket on the crank pulley nut. There are three wires for each: the common ground lead is black/light blue and for the crank the signal should be on the gray black and for the cam on tan/yellow wire. Have the ignition in the run position and you should see a voltage oscillation between 5V and 0.3V three times for every complete revolution of the crankshaft.
There are other possibilities, too, but give this a try and let me know. If I am shown as "maxed out" you can use the "rate the expert" tab where there is a comments area to insert text information. I get a notification of such responses immediately.
Roland