Chrysler Repair: Intermittant starting/no start...2.5 V-6... Code 11 found, crankshaft sensor, wire colors

Question
It's a 95 Sebring LXi...  80,000 miles.  Over the course of the last month (3 times) when you shut it off, it won't start unless you wait 20 minutes or so.  This time, the fourth time, I parked it last night when I got home and now it will not start at all.  Since these were due, I replaced the fuel and air filter, check all the other fluids because everything has censors.   Then replaced the cap and rotor...  still nothing!

I had read some of the different problems here on allexperts, and I'm thinking the coil pack... but I will be doggone if I can find that rascal!


Signed,
Frustrated...  (Craig)  Thanks in advance

Answer
Hi again,
So you do get an 11 code. I guess with those symptoms you really don't need to do a readout!
You might want to get the new crankshaft sensor first so you know what you are looking for (~ $75). Then notice that the position (depth) of the sensor in the bell housing is adjustable due to a slotted fitting for the bolt to pass thru. Also notice there is a paper stuck to the business end of the new sensor, don't remove it. You position the sensor so the spacer rests against the surface of the flexplate, then you tighten down the bolt to about 8 foot-pounds to maintain that contact. When the engine spins the paper wears away and the tip of the sensor is close but not in contact with the surface. When you go to remove the plug on the old sensor, carefully lift the plastic retaining tab so as not to break it. The wire colors should ge orange/white, black/light blue, and gray/black.
That should get you going again.
Roland




Hi Craig,
Because you say you can't find a coil pack I believe that means you have a 2.5 V-6. I'm glad you got the question before throwing more parts at it, which is pretty expensive.
The best way to get a handle is to get the fault codes that may be stored in the engine controller to readout on the instrument cluster. Turn the ignition switch:"On-off-on-off-on and leave on" then watch the check engine light which will be "on" to begine to flash, pause, flash, puase, etc.
Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat to make sure you have an accurate count. Then group the numbers in pairs in the order that they readout, thus forming the two-digit fault codes. The last code is always 55 which means end of readout. You can get a translation at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html but you will probably want to write back for how to deal with the specifics. This should cut straight thru to the problem.
There is no coil pack but rather a coil built-in to the distributor. Very expensive part, don't want to replace that unless necessary by code or by test.
I suspect it may be the crankshaft sensor because that is how they behave as they are beginning to quit: the sensor overheats at shut down then recovers, and works again, but finally then won't work at all.
So give that a try. The sensor is not too obvious, just a three-wire plug on the end of nub that is bolted on the engine/transmission bellhousing interface where the invisible part is inserted under the surface to be in near contact with the flex plate (equivaltent of the flywheel) where it gets the spark/injector timing cues. It is on the upper half of the bell housing a bit closer to the firewall than to the front of the car. But write me if that isn't the code (it would be code 11) or if it is and you want the details on replacing it.
Roland