Chrysler Repair: 97 plymouth breeze not idling right, engine vacuum, plymouth breeze

Question
My husband replaced a leaking water pump in my 97 plymouth breeze. After everything was put back in place and the car restarted it doesn't idle right. IT is fine while driving at 80kms ect but once in town  will stall as soon as you take your foot of the gas. While in park it idles rough and will stall. What could be wrong? He has rechecked everything to make sure it was reconnected. Thanks  

Answer
Hi Shelley,
So the code agrees with an egr diagnosis. I'll assume that you have the 2.5 V-6 engine in there. If not let me know. Most likely it is valve itself that is sticking ajar instead of opening and closing in response to the solenoid ow the vacuum line to the egr actuator. Here is how to deal with that:
The 0403 says that when the PCM tries to operate the EGR it doesn't seem to respond. While it could be electical, more likely it is mechanical or vacuum that is the problem.
It is saying that when the engine control module tests the egr it doesn't seem to function, which usually means the EGR valve is stuck, most likely ajar. So you need to try and get it freed up and moving again so that it will be closed when the engine is shut down, otherwise it will be difficult to start and to idle.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle.
So try those things, and see if the engine runs normally now. If not, I can tell your husband how to check the electrical circuit if he has a voltohmmeter.
Roland
PS Thanks for the kind evaluation.




Hi Shelley,
I can't think of anything specifically related to changing a waterpump except that for all the engines it appears that the timing belt has to be removed in order to remove the pump. If the timing marks for all the sprockets weren't exactly aligned then this sort of problem could be the consequence. It would be worth while check where the timing marks now sit when the engine is at TDC. I think he should be able to do this without going thru the entire process again because the belt doesn't have to be totally removed, just readjusted. If you have the 2.5L engine a special torque tool is needed for proper installation of the tensioner, and you need to follow a very specific intruction to successfull install it with all the marks maintaining alignment. Let me know if he needs the instructions. It is spelled out in the Haynes manual # 25015.
Other than that, I can only think of the egr valve being ajar rather than closed when idling, or there is an unrelated fault code stored in the engine controller that if read out would give you some direction. Take the ignition key and go "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing this in 5 seconds or less. Then watch for code numbers to appear in the odometer window, and if that doesn't happen watch for the check engine light which will remain on to start to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to verify the numbers. Then group the numbers in pairs in the order they came out to form two digit numbers, the last of which is always 55  (end of readout). You can get code translations at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
So let me know what he finds by either code readout, egr valve check out, or timing mark verification.
Roland