Chrysler Repair: 93 Lebaron will not start, center electrode, spark coil

Question
Hi Roland,
I wrote for your advice a week or so ago on my 93 Lebaron which has a 3 liter V6. I did as you recomended and what I found was that when I turn the key I do hear what I beleive is the fuel pump as well as a click sound that you sugested that would be the injectors. I did find that there is no spark. I checked all conections and cleaned the contacts on the inside of the distribitor. I am open to any other sugestions before I start replacing hundreds of dollars of parts.

Thanks again.

Ed

Answer
Hi Ed,
You didn't tell me where you checked for spark: at the center wire of the distributor cap, at the spark plug proper?
I would recheck to be sure that you don't have any codes other than 12. Then I would pull the 2-wire plug on the spark coil and measure for the presence of 12V on the vertical or 'upright' of the 2-contact "T" shaped plug when you are cranking the engine, just to be sure that the ASD is providing power to the coil on the dark green/orange wire.
If you are getting that 12V when cranking then either the driver for the spark that comes from the controller to the cross bar of the "T" or the coil itself is bad. Check the coil: Measure the resistance between the two contacts at coil's plug socket and verify that it is 0.97 to 1.18 ohms. Then I would measure the resistance from the center electrode socket to the body of the coil to verify that it reads 11,000 to 15,300 ohms. Then I would plug the 2-wire connector into its socket and remove the center wire from the distributor cap and hold it's tip 1/4" from the cylinder head while a helper cranks the engine. See if you get spark. If not then there has to be something wrong with either the sensors in the distributor (which should produce a code 11 or 54 if so) or the engine controller. If you do get spark, but you don't get spark from the plugs themselves, then check the rotor (resistance from center button to tip) and the distributor cap (arc traces or cracks).
Finally I would remove the distributor cap and make sure that when a helper cranks the engine that the rotor is rotating.
So I'll await results of all these tests to figure out why no spark. No need to 'throw' parts at the problem, just analyze.
Roland

Ed Smith Asks in Category Chrysler Repair ...
 
Subject:  '93 3.0L V-6, stopped with no codes, won't fire up
Private:  no
 
Question:  Hello,
My 93 labaron quit running yesterday as if it ran out of gas. I read your advice to another question stating to check the codes the the "check Engine" light would display. The only code I can generate is 12.

Thank you
 
Answer:  Hi Ed,
Without codes we have find out if you have spark and fuel. Here is how I answered a very similar question earlier this year for the same engine:
"When you say "checked spark to the coil" do you mean that you checked the 12V supply to the spark coil + post when cranking it for 5 seconds, or do you mean that you tested for actual spark at the end of the spark cable that enters the distributor cap by holding its tip 1/4" from the cylinder head while a helper cranked it for 5 seconds or did you check the spark at one of the spark plug caps using an inserted screwdriver with its shaft held 1/4" from the head? Which you did would be relevant for me to know. I would prefer that you verified spark using the screwdriver shaft held 1/4" from the block as this proves spark at the plug proper, or you can remove a plug and then insert it back in the cap and hold the threads against the block while cranking and watch for spark to jump the plug gap.
Do you hear the fuel pump run for a second or so when you turn the ignition to the run position?
Do you hear the injectors make any clicking sounds when you are cranking the engine?
All those would help clarify if we have timing signals and that the ASD relay is closed when cranking...
So if we have compression and spark and fuel that is properly synchronized, we get into some of the more subtle issues like mixture (MAP/coolant temp sensor/fuel pressure) and throttle position sensor and idle control motor any of which could be off value but not so far as to set a fault code. There are tests for all those which I can fill you in about. But if you would be willing to focus on the above items and let me know if one of them resolves the problem and if not then we can approach the subtle ones.
If I am maxed out write me back by the comments section of the "thank and rate" tab below. I only take one question at a time so it isn't so easy to find me available. Otherwise I get overwhelmed.
P.S. If you have a car that has an egr valve then the  valve might be stuck ajar and prevent a mixture necessary to start and idle the engine. See if you can spot the valve between the rear exhaust manifold and the intake manifold near the throttle body."
So try to test some of those same items (spark, fuel pump hum, injector click, does it have an egr), Ed, and let me know what you find.
Roland