QuestionJust got off the phone with the dealer. They are telling me that there is a short and have to check all the wiring in the car which could mean dismantling basicly everything. Other problems I am experiencing are: Auto locks do not work when the lights or blower are turned on, the blower doesnt work. The locks click when the lights turn on only initially. Since I just replaced the controle module, I would like to have the dealer fix this problem but need to give them some direction because I dont think they are anaylsing this correctly. Thank you for your help.
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Followup To
Question -
I am having some electrical problems with my 97 LHS. The problems led to the controle module replacement. After the replacement the electrical problems were much less frequent but have been more of a problem in the past few days. The problems are: When the lights are turned on the interior dash lights will get dim and lighter, and the trunk will pop. If the car is not running and the lights are on, there whine. The blinkers sometimes do not work.
I have taken it the the dealer but they could not figure it out without first estimating that the cost could be in the thousands.
Please help, Thank You.
Answer -
Hello again Greg,
After thinking about your problem overnight I would suspect that there is a problem centered in the body control module mounted on the right cowl. All those systems are centered there and thus would explain these seemingly unrelated quirks. Because of its position under the corner of the windshield if there are any water leaks from above they drip on the three multi-pin plugs of the module and shorting together of the wires at the sockets can cause almost any kind of strange behavior. The whining sound is probably a problem with the 'dinging' speaker in that module which is supposed to remind you that you left your headlamps on. Maybe there is water in speaker opening. The remote trunk lid release switch in the glove box may be similarly compromised by moisture so take a look at that. If necessary try disconnecting the switch to see if that stops your spontaneous lid opening problem (or check to see if it might be corroded in the closed position). Here is how to get to the module:
It is mounted diagonally on the side wall (cowl) fairly high off the floor, not behind or under the glove box. Once you get the trim panel off you may be able to feel it through the liner:
"Remove right end cap from the dash
Remove right cowl side trim panel and pull carpeting back exposing dash liner
Cut dash liner along perforated lines and pull back dash liner.
Remove mounting screw (top edge of module) through oblong hole at right hand end of knee bolster.
Remove push-pin fastener at lower rear corner leg of module from underneath the instrument panel and maneuver module down and out, disconnect the three electrical plugs to remove the module.
Once you have it out, check for any dirt, corrosion, water around all the sockets and the plug pins which might be causing a short circuit.
Please let me know if this approach helps you solve the problems. I hope it works for you, particularly after the thosands of dollar dealer estimate.
Roland
Hi Greg,
The dealer must be trying to sell you a new car!
I have the factory wiring diagrams for the '94 LHS which should be applicable, and also the '94-7 Haynes which are skimpy.
Before I try to chase these down, please tell me a bit more:
was the control module that was replaced the "body" module? When it was first replaced did all the problems go away and how soon after did the latest problems start?
Do you have the remote entry capability fob? Describe what you mean by dim and by lighter (oscillate back and forth or what time sequencing)? What whines when the lights are off, can you place its location? Is there any rhyme or reason to the blinkers functioning or not? Was the car sold in Canada (e.g. does it have daytime running lamps)? Does the problems start with the headlamp switch in parking light position or when the full headlamps are requested or both positions.
Roland
AnswerHi Greg,
All these 'gremlins' smack of problems at the body control module. I doubt that the issue involves checking "all the wiring" which would be an invitation to a bottomless pit of labor charges. I would simply go to the module as I described and look at its plugs and the sockets into which they fit. And buy a can of spray electronic contact cleaner at a place like Radioshack or any electronics parts store and spray both the plugs and sockets, then let it evaporate, plug it back together and see if works any better. On the blower, you could jump a pair of wires to the motor plug under the dash on the right underside of the air disrtibution unit to see if it is the motor for the fan or something else. Do you have the ATC unit with digital temp setting or a conventional unit?
That is my best advice at this point. If you don't want to authorize a fishing trip (or maybe a "boat payment") I would set a limit and point them in the direction I have suggested. Use your judgement.
Roland
