Questionhey, thanx for the reply...Ok i took it to a shop today. or actually had it towed...anyways..they hooked up the DBR and same thing as emissions said,,,,They cant access the PCM to get into it to retreive codes ..or anything...I messed the situation up worse by un plugging th VTSS module without the engine running..So now it is in deep shut down mode...They cant even get into the PCM to get that cleared...So im thinking its the pcm! signd were kind of pointing to it before the engine wouldnt start...any comments about not being able to access computer?thanx for your time..
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Followup To
Question -
hello, I just bought a 97 chrysler sebring coupe 2.5L v6 and i took it to get emmissions tested and they told me they couldnt test it cause the OBD wasnt ready or set-up to read. They told me that whoever i bought the car from probably recently changed the battery or PCM or something, and that the car needed to reset itself, and that i should bring it back after driving it around town for a few days, as long as the check engine light doesnt come on...Well, the check engine light has come on several times since then. When i start the car for the first time of the day. It usually dies right after, and then everything is fine. Except when driving on the freeway, out of nowhere the engine will jerk(like the comp is trying to reset itself)and then sometimes check engine light comes on, sometimes not..Now.. i went to start my car today, started fine, then died out, now the engine just rotates and doesnt even act like its trying to fire. Please help...do i need a new pcm?
Answer -
It sounds like someone did clear the codes.
It also sounds like you could have a couple of things wrong with it related to the jerk, light and no-start conditions.
The 2.5L v6 is a good engine as far as oil leaks, longevity and performance but the down side is that it's tied in heavily with mitsubishi and one of the most expensive parts related to a no start condition like this COULD BE the distributor. It has the coil pack integrated with it and when they quit working you will have an "engine turns over but won't run" condition. Expect to pay over $750 for a new one from the dealer.
In addition to the distributor you may just have a bad crank sensor. This is a sensor that looks at a tone wheel (gear) and as a tooth passes by the sensor it makes the sensor pass current. After passing that point the sensor no longer passes current through it. Basically, the computer sees an On-Off-On-Off signal over and over again and this signal is used to determine where the crankshaft is in correlation to the camshafts. If this sensor fails the car won't run.
The last most common problem is the computer itself. These don't fail nearly as much but still do from time to time.
If you are mechanically inclined I would suggest buying a crank sensor and throwing it in there. It's going to be about as cheap as a tow bill and certainly cheaper than a repair with diagnostics at a repair shop. This is of course just a suggestion based on past history and total expenses for this single part. After that point I would say you're going to have to either fork over some money for service manuals, diagnostic meters and spend some time with me online or someone else who is familiar with these tests.
Doug
AnswerI'm not sure if your vehicle has the SKIM system or not but it used to be that you could put the key in the ignition, leave it in the on position for about 30-60 minutes with a battery charger attatched and the SKIM module would eventually unlock itself.
That would get you passed the SKIM system issue. If you went to a repair shop that has the DRB then I'm assuming you went to the dealership. If that's the case then they should have more than enough diagnostic information to start chasing a no-start condition that INCLUDES loss of communications. Chances are you do have a bad computer but only the man with the car and right test equipment can tell for sure.
Doug
