QuestionFollowup To
Question -
i have a 87' chrysler new yorker 2.2l , turbo. i have given it a tune-up,(plugs,wires,air filter,cap and rotor), fuel pump, fuel filter, pick-up module, catty was hollowed, vacum lines were checked, battery was replaced, starter was replaced. i am still having the same PROBLEM! when i start my engine it smetimes starts rough , other times not, but anyway, when i am in park it will run fine, can give it lotws of gas and it is fine, when i put it into drive, and start going the more i put the pedal down it wants to cut out. the longer i run it the worse it gets, to the point of when i put the gas down any more then barely touching the gas, it wants to cut out. i can't pull hills i can't drive it long distances, and i have alrady put all these parts in to it and still nothing. i don't have the money to take it and get it hooked up to the computer, or the timing light, or the fuel pressure monitor. plz help , give me some options plz, i am a husband with two kids, and i don't want to have to lose my job because i can't get to work, plz HELP ME!
Answer -
Hi Jeremiah,
You don't have to go to a shop to get the any fault codes that the engine controller may have logged into its memory:
It may have a stored fault code that is indicative of some engine control problem which will help us determine the cause.You can readout the engine controller for stored fault codes with your ignition key. Turn it: "On-off-on-off-on and leave it on" (doing this within an elapsed time of 5 seconds or less). The check engine light will remain 'on' but then begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. The last sets of flashes will be five in each. Then repeat to be sure you have the numbers correct. Group the numbers in pairs to form two-digit numbers which are the codes. The last code will be 55 which means end of readout.
You can get the meaning of the codes at www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
The translations aren't specific enough to know exactly what to do, but directs you toward the system in which a fault was found. You can send me a follow up question for more specific advice. If I am "maxed out" then use the comments section of the 'Thank and Rate' tab below to reach me.
While you are waiting for me to respond you should check the exhaust gas recirculation valve to make sure that it isn't stuck ajar. Look for the stem in the separation area between the valve and the vacuum actuator. There is a slot in the stem into which you can put the tip of a screwdriver. Make surt the stem moves out and back against sping tension and that is closes tightly. Put some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body to be sure that it will move freely.
I'll get back with some ideas after you tell me any fault codes.
Roland
P.S. It could be that the fuel pressure regulator is not sustaining the 55 psi needed to operate the injectors properly but that should be checked with a pressure gauge so you don't buy a regulator unnecessarily.. So see if you can find one to borrow. But lets see how the fault codes and egr help on this problem before trying that route.
this is the follow u p to the above mentioned:
well, iw as taking the o2 sensor back i bought, mine has 3 wires this one had 1 so i went to see how much it would be and the lady in the parts store when her daughter's dodge aires acted the same way , it threw th ecode for o2 sensor/ map sensor, so they replaced both and found out it was the map sensor that was bad, is this a good possibility, i was thinking an\bout the timing belt test, but the only thing that makes me think it isn't that is that the pone time i was going down the block and gave it some xtra gas to see what it would do, and it cut out and would turn back over, so i let it sit for about a half and hour and went back out there and it fired right up, no problem, so if there was slack in the belt it might be all the time, i don't think it wouldn't start at one thime but at another, so is the MAP sensor and o2 sennsor somewhere is hould look even though it is no throwing any code, when i do give it xtra gas when it starts to cut out my car has all the digital gauges and it goes from 20+ mpg to around 10-14 mog is this something that could give another clue in teh possibble fixing of this car finally, i don't want to pay to hook it up to a computer if all it is going to do it throw the 55 code and then i'm out 60 more dollars which i could use to get another part, o2 is 46 dollars and the map is almost 60 dollars, WHAT SHOULD I DO? plz, e-mail me back to help , any clue? and if it is the map sensor where is it located?
AnswerI would want to know what engine codes you have like Roland suggested. From the sounds of things you may be a little strapped for cash and having a dependable ride is priority 1 when it comes to reducing extra bills.
However, you have spent over $250.00 easy in parts and gas going back and forth to the parts store. I realize that this is a site that caters to do-it-yourself'ers and folks that just want a straight answer but sometimes that means hearing something you don't want to hear.
In this case I'm going to advise you to stop buying part after part in hopes of getting it right. From the description of your problem, the year, make, model and engine of your vehicle you have alot of things working against you. This particular has a turbo which means you could have vacuum lines going to it that are bad. Your waste gate could be open causing a lack of power, your turbine could be seized basically strangling the engine both on the intake and exhaust side. You've got throttle body injection which in your case uses lots of vacuum lines that run between the throttle body and the passenger side of the car. You could even have a bad engine coolant temperature sensor causing the car to run poorly.
This obviously isn't what you want to hear and may even sound a bit harsh for someone who's supposed to be giving you answers to your questions. But honestly, you've already spent alot of money and haven't gotten anywhere. I think it's time to hand the car over to a professional and both let them fix it and hold them accountable for the expenses in the event that they mis-diagnose it.
Sorry,
Doug
