QuestionThanks so much, Roland!
I realized too late that I didn't give you the engine details:
It's a rebuilt 2.6 L
carb (how do I find out about the w/without feedback?)
I don't know what state it was originally delivered to...would the rebuilt engine nullify that info anyway?
I don't think it's turbo...!
Does that change things?
(If it does have an egr, where is it? I have changed the egr on my Plymouth Voyager van but haven't heard of one on this one!)
thanks for your time to reply. much appreciated!
Freddy
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Followup To
Question -
Hi, Roland. I just replaced, under lifetime warranty, the fuel pump. First thing in the morning, this beauty runs and drives fine to work (4 miles, surface streets). If I take it on the highway and then cruise into a parking lot and shut it off, though, it won't restart. (It even dies on me after the highway run as it gears down on the exit ramp after several minutes of high speed driving.) Try to restart: Engine turns over, battery check is satisfactory, but it won't engage the starter. If I let it sit for an hour or so, it restarts, and I can drive home, acting very normal at that point. I've heard that ignition modules commonly go bad (starts when cold; once heated the defect kicks in; but where is it located?); we are in major Texas heat here; this problem has just begun. Ideas on where to start looking? thanks, Freddy
Answer -
Hi Freddy,
I am not certain that the hall effect sensor, the one that is usually associated with hot failure, then recovery upon cool down, is necessarily the cause of your problem. Rather it sounds more like a sticky egr valve that is staying ajar rather than closing down tight when its hot. Unfortunately I can't tell specifically if you have an egr or where to look for it because you didn't tell me which engine and fuel control system you have in the car. Is it a 2.2 or a 2.6, turbo or non-turbo, fuel injected or carbed, if carbed without or with feedback, and what state was it orginally delivered to? All those variables make a difference. So let me know so I can give you better direction.
If you find the egr valve, try moving the stem back and forth by inserting the blade of a screwdriver in the slot and levering it gently against the spring action to make sure that it is seating in the fully closed position. If it seems sticky try spraying some wd-40 or other thin lubricant on the stem where it enters the valve body.
I can give you more info on the rest of the engine controls once you tell me about what you have there.
Roland
AnswerHi Freddy,
The 2.6L with Mikuni carb (with or without feedback) is an engine that I have no familiarity with. I do have the '84 Chrysler shop manual so in theory I could learn about it, but I have so few requests that I hesitate to do the 'book-larning' and also with no engine to lay hands on it would be a challenge. The egr system is quite complex from what I see. And the feedback vs. non-feedback design is shown but the differences appear subtle to me so that describing what to look for is difficult.
Your point about a failure of the spark circuit is well taken. I would suggest that you go for a ride with a helper on board who would operate the ignition key when the engine dies. Then pull the center wire from the distributor cap and hold the tip 1/4" from the cylinder head while the helper cranks the engine and you watch for a spark to jump the gap. If none appears, then a good bet is that the "igniter" in the distributor has indeed failed due to heat. If you have spark, then I would focus on the mixture and specifically the egr system. That too is very complex with dual controls of its operation.
There is another expert I know who participates in the Yahoo Autos group called The Chrysler LeBaron Club whose name is Bill Vose. He has owned several of the 2.6L engines and has agreed to help me field your sort of question. So I would suggest writing to him after you have determined whether or not you have spark when the engine dies so as to reduce the number of possibilities for the problem. He can be reached at
wmvose@cox.net
I could xerox copy and postal mail you the pages about the carburetor and the egr and the distributor from the '84 manual. It amounts to about 65 pages or so, and at 4 cents per page plus the postage would cost about $5 to get these to you. If you don't have a manual that covers the engine you would be helped if you intend to service this yourself.
So let me know what you learn and tell me your postal address if you want the pages. You can reimburse me with postage stamps or a personal check after you receive them.
Let Bill know that I referred you to him.
Roland
