Chrysler Repair: 2.5 V-6:Will not start, No Spark,codes 11 and 31, crank sensor, document scanner

Question
We just purchased a 1996 Cirrus (V6 2.5L engine).  I was following my husband home from the car lot when I noticed there were sparks coming from the tailpipe.  He pulled over and said the the car just turned off.  My brother checked the car and found he wasn't getting a spark.  I checked the computer codes which were 12, 31, 11 and 55.  We looked them up and decided it may be the distributor.  We changed the distributor and we still aren't getting any spark.  My brother checked for a spark by inserting a screwdriver into the plug and putting it against the metal on the engine.  The car sounds like it wants to turn over but nothing is happening.  The 31 has to do with the EVAP system.  I not quite sure what approach to take with that code.  Does this car have a chance or did we just lose our money?

Answer
Hi Vanessa,
I am pleased that the crank sensor solved the no start and that you have the car up and running. On the 31 code: I looked at my Haynes (Chapter 6, Section 7) and it says almost the same information as does the Chrysler shop manual. Because I don't have a document scanner I can't send the pages over the internet but rather copy and post mail, and I am willing to do that. But if you and your husband will take a look at the Haynes and do the procedures described there I suspect that you will also solve the evap system issue. The check engine light should go out when you do but the code may remain in the memory of the engine controller for about 50 key on-off cycles after the fault is corrected as will the 11 code. You can erase the codes by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes but then you have to reset the radio presets and the clock. So I would be inclined to just let the memory clear itself over a few weeks of driving.
Roland
P.S.: Thank you for your kind words and evalutation.









Hi Vanessa,
No I don't think you lost your money, rather you have a spare distributor.
The 11 code more often means that the crankshaft sensor is bad, while the cam sensor in the distributor is more likely going to produce a 54 code when it fails. So I believe that if your replace the crank sensor it will solve the no spark problem. It is located just below the distributor.
If you want to check it before you replace it you can use pins to probe the three wires at the sensor. With the ignition switch on the orange/white should have 8v compared to ground. If you back probe the gray/black and black/light blue wires and measure the voltage between them then as you turn the crankshaft by hand with a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt you should see an alternation of voltage between 0.3 and 5.0 volts. (Haynes manual suggests pulling the spark plug wires from the distributor cap before doing the latter test, but I am not sure why).
To replace, remove the single bolt and withdraw the sensor. The new sensor will have a paper spacer on the tip which you leave in place. You insert the sensor so the paper spacer touches the internal surface of the flex plate and hold it tight in contact while tightening the bolt to 105 inch-pounds. The paper spacer is "sacrificed" when the engine turns but leave the sensor at the correct distance from the plate to produce a signal.
On the code 31 it is complex enough that you need the complete explanation of the system and how to check it. I can xerox and postal mail you a couple of pages from the Haynes manual if you give me a postal address to send it to.
The 12 and 55 codes are unremarkable.
I will be tied up with a fence-building project this weekend, but if you will respond with any questions, address etc. via the comments section in the "thank and rate" tab I will get the alert that you have sent me a response to check out.
Good luck with the vehicle repair. I think it may be an alright car. The crank sensor is a common failure part in any contemporary car.
Roland