Chrysler Repair: Theft system acts up after attempted break-in, side kick panel, vehicle security system

Question
My 1994 New yorker was burglarised some time ago. Thieves only managed to damage the key lock on the front driver's side. Since then, I have problems some times to start the car. Every gauge lits up fine, but the engien will not start, much in the same fashion as if the alarm was still active. I have not found a way to go around this: Some times locking and unlocking the car seems to work, there was one time when it actualy started after arming the alarm. weird huh?

Answer
Hi Arturo,
There is an electrical switch on the key lock on both the driver and the passenger side door that is used to deactivate the vehicle theft security system. So that burglary attempt probably damaged the disarm switch in that door. You could remove the door panel and replace that switch to improve the situation or just stop using the theft system by not locking the door with either the power locks or the keyless entry remote. Here is the general strategy:
The system is centered in the body computer which is under the dash on the passenger side kick panel and it does many other functions as well as the vehicle security system. The driver and passenger door key locks have an electrical component (resistor) that when actuated signal the computer that the key has been used to open the door and this disarms the system. The system is armed by locking the doors with the electric locks control button when exiting. (Using the remote keyless system will also arm the system when exiting, if that is part of your system).
The most likely reason for no start/start and die is that the body computer has not been disarmed via the keylock resistor signal not being received at the computer. There are wires that pass from the door to the body at the hinge which can over time fatigue/break or the switch on the key lock is damaged.
If this fail to start occurs, my inclincation would be to remove the key from the ignition and exit the car using the electric door lock switch which will re-arm the system. Then try using the key to unlock the passenger side door or the remote keyless entry in an attempt to get a proper disarm to occur (dash light goes out).
There are other alerts on the trunk that might also complicate the function of the system if they were malfunctioning. There is a self-test of the entire system that can be initiated using a plug-in readout box (at the dealership) and that will reveal which if any of these different sensors is at fault for then a directed repair of its wiring.
As you have experienced the theft security system will, if not disarmed, prevent starting/running of the engine for more than a few seconds.
So if you wants to get around the problem of the driver side door not disarming the system you could try opening the passenger door first with the key, or use the remote to open the door. If it becomes too flakey I would just never use the power door locks when exiting (or the remote) and give up on the alarm/theft entirely and just use the key in the old-fashioned way. That would minimize repair costs at the dealership if you can live with it. The theft system is not separable from the body computer, so except for the door sensors and their wiring, parts are not cheap, and labor in any case is costly.
I hope you can work around this problem for that reason.
Roland