QuestionI have the same (exact) problem as the one bellow. Except that my T&C is a 1998 and has 93,000 miles on it, and the "Check Engine" light has not come on.
Did you ever get a definite cause of the problem?
Thank you,
Sean
Date: 10/2/2005
Subject: 1999 Town and Country Blowing Fuses
My T&C has 115,000+ miles on it and has been mostly reliable.
About a year ago, the fuse that controls the ABS, rear signals, and A/C blowers started burning out. My normal mechanic just upped the amperage (it's supposed to be a 10A) and said there was "no way to find the problem without spending a whole day doing it". That worked for six months or so, then it started blowing them so I went up to a 25A. Those worked well, only blowing once every three or four months. Now, they've started blowing again, and even a 30A gets blown after two minutes or so. The blower doesn't even have to be turned on for the fuse to go.
Possibly unrelated, but the Check Engine light started going on at roughly the same time; the code says something about vapor recovery system; the mechanic says it's not a big deal so I haven't had that fixed.
Any ideas on what's going on here?
Answer
Hi Steve,
The fuse is I believe #12 (can you verify that?) and my partial diagrams from the Haynes manual shows that it supplied power to the front A/C blower relay actuation coil (not to the blower itself), as well as to the back up light system. I don't have the circuitry for the ABS so I don't know what its power is used for there. You could begin by pulling out the relay for the blower motor located in the power distribution center. If that stops the fuse from blowing then I would buy a new relay. If not, then I would check the back-up light bulbs and sockets to see if one of the bulbs is shorted, the socket is shorted, or putting the bulbs back in the socket one at a time, doing each of these in turn causes the fuse to blow. . . .
Let me know what you find out.
Roland
AnswerHi Sean,
Thank you for looking for and finding the previous question. I am impressed!
No, I don't find any response from Steve. But I have learned from another questioner that the bulb holders at the rear seem to be a problem. So you might check those for internal shorting.
I also didn't mention to him that of course he could use a digital ohmmeter at the fuse socket to record changes in the downstream reading as one removes various components to find one that is causing the short. That saves the cost of testing by fuse blowing.
I would appreciate knowing what you determine to be the cause.
Roland
