QuestionHi Roland
My van, a 96´ voyager, does not respond on the remotecontrol "unlock" but do on "lock" but it starts for about 2-3 seconds and then die, the alarm keep blinking. I read out the codes and it says 42 times 3... the remote has new battery and so forth..tryed everything now and its hopeles. Is it posibel that the remote is dead. There have been installed a new motorcomputer i the car 3 month ago. Remark that i have only one remote and should get one more just in case.
Y.S.
Michael Nielsen
Copenhagen
Denmark
Europe
AnswerHi Michael,
This is not a unique problem that you have.
I would first note that when the motorcomputer (powertrain control module) was installed it was necessary to go thru a procedure at a Chrysler dealer in which the remote entry control is acquainted to the module so that it will recognize the remote. That may be why it won't disarm the security system. If there is a dealer close enough to you then I would try to tow the van there if they agree that may be the problem and they have the diagnostic readout box tool with which to make the "acquaintance".
Even if that is not possible, the system should disarm by using a door key to lock/unlock either the driver door or the passenger door. If that doesn't disarm the system then there is likely a broken wire between an electric switch attached to each of those key locks and the internal body computer located by the fuse box. Those wires pass thru the door hinge area and they will fatigue and disconnect after years of opening and closing. So you could remove the door panel and check whether the wires are conductive between the switches at the lock and the body computer by observing the color codes of the wires to trace between the locks and the body computer plugs.
Once you get it to disarm, by whatever means, you can avoid the issue by never using the security system again. Just secure the van with the manual door keys only. Never use the electrical locks to close the van and you will never be locked out or defeated in getting the engine to start and run.
I wrote to another owner of a '96 van earlier this April whose wife was having the same problem. Here is what I said:
"The system as I understand it from a manual that was written for earlier years ('96) is centered in the body computer which is under the dash next to the fuse box and it does many other functions as well as the vehicle security system. The driver and passenger door key locks have an electrical component (resistor) that when actuated signal the computer that the key has been used to open the door and this disarms the system. The system is armed by locking the doors with the electric locks control button when exiting. (Using the remote keyless system will also arm the system when exiting, if that is part of your system).
The most likely reason for no start/start and die is that the body computer has not been disarmed via the keylock resistor signal not being received at the computer. There are wires that pass from the door to the body at the hinge which can over time fatigue/break.
If this fail to start occurs, my inclincation would be to remove the key from the ignition and exit the car using the electric door lock switch which will re-arm the system. Then try using the key to unlock the passenger side door or the remote keyless entry in an attempt to get a proper disarm to occur (dash light goes out).
There are other alerts on the rear side door and rear hatch that might also complicate the function of the system if they were malfunctioning. There is a self-test of the entire system that can be initiated using a plug-in readout box (at the dealership) and that will reveal which if any of these different sensors is at fault for then a directed repair of its wiring.
As you have experienced the theft security system will, if not disarmed, prevent starting/running of the engine for more than a few seconds.
So if she wants to get around the problem of the driver side door not disarming the system she could try opening the passenger door first with the key, or use the remote to open the door. If it becomes too flakey I would just never use the power door locks when exiting (or the remote) and give up on the alarm/theft entirely and just use the key in the old-fashioned way. That would minimize repair costs at the dealership if she can live with it. The theft system is not separable from the body computer, so except for the door sensors and their wiring, parts are not cheap, and labor in any case is costly.
I hope you can work around this problem for that reason."
Good luck on getting around this failure to disarm situation.
Roland
P.S. The 42 code (I am not sure what you mean by "times 3") is a readout about the engine controller, not the body computer or the theft system. It says that there is a problem with the autoshutdown relay which is located in the power distribution center, the box near the battery with relays and fuses inside of it. If you weren't having a problem with the theft system it would possibly explain why the engine dies after 2-3 seconds, but that sort of behavior is really symptomatic of the theft system still being armed and so it treats you as you were a thief! After the alarm system is by-passed successfully then if you have trouble getting the engine to run and the 42 code was still stored in the engine controller it would be worth checking that relay by energizing it and measuring weather it has closed the internal contacts of the switch or not. Just put a battery jump voltage across the contacts from one side to the other (try both ways till you get it to click) then measure the continuity on the other opposing pair of contacts with an ohmmeter or circuit test bulb unit.
