Chrysler Repair: starters...., solenoid switch, country chrysler


Question
I have a 2000 Town & Country-Chrysler. Won't start. I have power, lights etc... When key turned clicking sound..is this the starter? Is the starter part of the cap and rotor? Can I replace the starter my self...how hard is it.

Thanx

Answer
Hi Jeff,
There are two things that you might hear click when you try the start position, so open the hood and have someone else turn the key. One click is fairly quiet and comes from the starter relay which is probably in the power distribution center box, usually located on the driver's side of the vehicle. If that clicks then the relay is responding to the ignition key. Then there is a louder click, simultaneously with the relay click, that comes from the solenoid switch on the starter motor proper. The starter motor is usually on the side of the engine that is adjacent to the firewall so you usually can't see it. You may have to look around the that rear side to see it, or you might have to get under the car to see it mounted on the side of the engine with its shrouded tip (gear) located near the seam between the engine and transmission while the electrical motor body of it is mainly on the side of the engine block. It is held in place by two bolts at the flange where the tip is inserted, and there may be a mounting bracket at the rear end for mechanical stability. There are two wires to the solenoid switch on the side of the motor. A big red one direct from the battery and a brown wire from the relay. If you do any work on the wires, be sure to disconnect the + post of the battery first. This motor is not associated with the distributor cap or rotor.
Now whether you have to replace the motor is yet to be determined. If you hear the louder click of the solenoid switch, then the starter circuitry is o.k. But it is possible that your battery may be low on charge or defective in its ability to put out enough voltage and current to activate the starter. I would suggest that you try to charge the battery with a charger (costs about $25 at an auto parts store, a useful device ti have around if your car is garaged or at least near enough to reach with an extension cord) that you plug into a nearby wall socket, or remove the battery and take it to a service station to be charged, or at least to a battery dealer to see the state of charge that is has (this is done by measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte fluid in each cell with an hygrometer, basically a baster with a float). If the battery is nearing the end of its warranty life, it would be suspect.  Only after satisfying yourself that the battery is up to snuff would I think of replacing the motor. The motor is fairly easy to replace, but it depends on accessibility to it and having the necessary wrenches to remove the bolts. You may find the best access if from under the car. If you don't hear the louder click, only the soft click from the relay, then the relay's internal contacts may be corroded, so you might try replacing the relay, and also check the brown wire at the solenoid on the motor to make sure it is connected tightly. (disconnect the battery before touching any such wiring!).
I haven't worked on a Chrysler van so can't give you any first hand knowledge. Let me know if you have any further questions, but do it today because I won't be available for 6 days next week. If I am listed as "maxed out" email me at rfinston@hotmail.com