Chrysler Repair: 1999 Chrysler Sebring LXI, chrysler sebring lxi, chrysler sebring

Question
Hello Roland,

I have a 1999 Chrysler Sebring LXI that will start intermediately. The last 2 days it has taken me about 30 min. to get my car started in the morning and afternoon. It will turn over, but not crank. The problem started in Nov. of last year, quit for several months and then started back again about 3 weeks ago. I was told by a mechanic that it could be the fuel pump, because in Nov. they switch from summer fuel to winter fuel, and about 3 weeks ago (when my problem started back again) they switched back to summer fuel. I took it to the shop and it started fine all day today while it was on the machine. Like I said, this is an intermediate problem, but is very annoying. Can you give me any suggestions as to what the problem might be?

Thanks so much,

Ann Turner

Answer
Hi Ann,
I can understand your annoyance. There are three things that come to mind.
First, did the shop check the engine control computer for fault codes stored in its memory? That will often give a clue to a no start situation. If so, let me know what they were if they got them. If not, use your ignition key to go
"on-off-on-off-on and leave in the on position" do this within an elapsed time of 5 seconds or less. Then notice that the check engine light will be "on" but begin to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. or maybe watch to see if something appears in the odometer window of the speedo unit. (At least I believe it will though things may have been changing in the late '90's that may have eliminated this ability to self-readout, and instead required plug-in of a readout box under the dash). If it does, count the number of flashes before each pause (or read the numbers in the odo window)  
and write that down. Then tell me the number of flashes or two digit codes in the order that they occured.
The second thing to do when the car refuses to start is to see if you are getting spark or not.  To test for spark, remove a cap from one of the spark plugs by holding on to the connector cap and pulling on it (don't pull on the wire). Then use a screwdriver (a philips head is better than a flat blade tip) with a plastic handle to probe inside the cap so that the tip touches the internal wire deep inside which normally touches the tip of the spark plug. Then hold the screwdriver by its plastic handle in one hand and the cap in the other hand so that you maintain the connection between the internal wire and the tip of the screwdriver. Move the assembly to be within 1/4 inch of a main metal part of the engine such as the cylinder head. Have a helper then try to start the car while you hold that position of 1/4" distance and observe whether during the cranking a spark jumps between the shaft of the screwdriver and the engine metal surface. Let me know that test result.
Also, notice the next time you go to the car and turn the key from off to on that if you open the door and listen for sound coming from the gas tank in the rear that there will be a humming sound for 1-2 seconds and then nothing. When the car next refuses to start see if the humming is gone too at that time. That is the fuel pump and if it wasn't getting voltage that would be significant to know.
Finally, there is valve in the pipe that runs between the exhaust manifold, on the side of the engine facing the front of the car, and the intake manifold over on the driver's side end of the engine where the incoming air is drawn thru the throttle body (the part that is attached to the gas pedal (so move the pedal to find out where that is).
If you look along that pipe, near the throttle body, you will see a metal valve under the big air hoses that has a round top and a rubber vacuum line attached to the top. If you examine the valve you will see that between the round top and the body of valve there is a flange and inside the flange you will see a metal rod that has a slit around its circumference. That rod is the stem of the exhaust gas recirculation valve and it moves in and out if the valve is working, as you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If that stem was sticking due to crud or corrosion and it happened to stick with the valve ajar then it would prevent the engine from starting because the air/fuel mixture would be wrong. So take a flat bladed screwdriver and insert it in the slot of the stem and try to move the valve in and out and see if it closes (due to spring pressure) all the way. If you suspect it is not moving freely then spray some solvent like WD-40 on the base of the stem where it enters the body of the valve to free up its "action". That alone could solve your problem if that were true.
So let me know when you get any results from these efforts and we can go from there. Also please verify that you have the 2.5L V-6 engine which is the most likely.
Roland