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I need to know what to look for on this car the inst. cluster(eletronic) wont light up and heater only works on high speed no off no adjustment just high
The insterment cluster is the biggest prob it can not be seen and i have checked all fuses
Thanks Ted
one more question (you have been a fantastic help so far speedo and such now working) the fan power resistor is it the thing that controls the fan speed it is maked sj4433 not sure if that makes sence but i was wondering if this is the prob it is mounted to the heat sink that was inside th heater box
Thanks Ted
2.2 turbo
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I found the thermal box you talk about but there is nothing hooked up to it
is the electronic the same as the manual one (heater control)
Hi Ted,
That eBay control unit is #8048766762 and ends tomorrow mid day. But check out the resistor block first, it is likely suffered a short of the black/tan wire's pin of the block to the mounting plate which them means it will be grounded and 'on' all the time on high speed, rather than there being any thing wrong with the switch in the control unit.
This is a fairly common problem. You can get a used block off of a salvage car of that era in almost any Chrysler built domestic vehicle because they all have the resistor block mounted behind the glove box up high so that the resistors are placed in the air flow from the outside that is routed via the air intake plenum to the heater box.
Roland
Hi Ted,
The instrument cluster has two voltage supplies (12V) and one variable supply for intensity of illumination. You need to remove the cluster and check these out on the 13 pins natural color plug as follows: black/orange and black/light green wires should be grounded to the chassi(any shiney metal surface, read 0 ohms resistance from that wire to ground), dark blue trace wire should have 12V when ignition is turned to run position, solid red should have 12V all the time, and then the orange wire on the black plug should have varying voltage when the headlamp switch is in park or headlamp position depending upon rotation position of the switch knob. If those all check out then that means the cluster has an internal electronic problem (probably a bad capacitor) that you might try to troubleshoot yourself or give up and buy a used one.
The heater on all the time usually means the resistor block has shorted out. This is mounted on the upper edge of the firewall behind the glove box (remove the glove box for access). It is a rectagular plate with a 5-pin plug (but only 4 wires) and when you remove the 2 screws the block will come loose and you will see the resistors on the other side. Usually when this happens something has burned out on that block so you need to replace it. Otherwise, you need to check the switch in the control unit mounted in the dash. I think there is a used control unit for sale on eBay that ends soon. Search "chrysler manual".
Roland
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Hi Ted,
Aha! You didn't mention that the heater unit was an automatic temerature control type of unit. That one is different from the manual unit. On the ATC type, the manual says that if the blower stays on all the time then either the black/tan wire connected to the green color 2-wire plug at the power/vacuum module of the unit is shorted to ground, or there is an electronic problem in the power/vacuum module proper. So to check it, you set the blower speed for one bar then disconnect the green plug at the module. If the fan keeps running then the black/tan wire is grounded and that needs to be traced to find where. If the fan stops, then the problem is at the power/vacuum module where there is a solid state blower motor speed control unit inside. It might be something you could troubleshoot electronically, otherwise you will need to find a used power/vacuum module. Maybe a capacitor has opened or one of the transistors has blown.
That p/v module is the large oddly shaped box on the right end of the under dash air distribution unit. To get at it and its plugs, for removal and maybe even just to disconnect the green 2-wire plug, you have to remove the glove box and the under dash padded valence cover. You will find 5 screws hold it in place and there are a 13 pin connector, the 2-wire connector and some vacuum lines to disconnect in order to remove it.
Roland
AnswerHi Ted,
Yes, the solid state device(s) mounted on a heat sink is the equivalent of the blower motor resistor block in the connventional unit. I don't have any info on what are the transistors that are mounted on the heat sink or any other aspects of the circuit on the unit. I do know that in the '93-on LH model it is called the 'blower power module' and that it is sold separately. However, I just checked my '88 parts catalog and find that the module in your unit is not listed as a separate part; only the entire power/vacuum module is sold. So I think unless there is an identifiable part number on the transistors (and of course assuming that the transistors are what is blown) then you may have to look for a used unit at a salvage yard. I would not be surprised however that the 'blower power module' shown for the LH has very similar parts as to what you have in your unit. So you might see how much that one costs, or look for a used unit in a salvage yard if you can find an LH with the ATC unit. In that case, the module is mounted in the air duct near the blower motor. I suspect that you are more likely to find an LH with ATC than a LeBaron with ATC.
Good luck on your search. It appears that you have gotten to the module that is causing the blower motor problem. Now all you need are the parts.
Roland
