QuestionGood morning Roland,
I am currently having trouble with my engine. I rencetly purchased the car off a close family freind. The first month or so the car ran great. However over the last few weeks it has gotten horrible. I am afraid it may be a transmission problem. While driving the car may jerk a bit when switching gears. This is not the problem as it is hardly noticeable. The real issue is when say I am driving about 50 for a period of time. The car may jerk, rev high and then jerk back into gear. To note I recently replaced the alternator. I did this due to the car stalling if I was not on the gas. This I thought would correct a few of my issues, but sadly it has not. Also to point out I just had an oil change done yesterday and the symptoms are still showing. I am lost to the cuase of my car woes. I did ask someone at a part shop and was told it may be a wire is grounding out. The only reason I mention this is because when I went to start my car today it would stall if I tried to place it in drive and go. Take into account that I did not give the car time to warm up. Is that normal for a car of this age or model? My biggest worry is finding that this is not the transmission, but maybe a slight mistake I made when doing something with the alternator. Laslty is there seems to be a plastic unit right below the alternator. I did not notice this at first, and I may have caused it, but the unit looks as though it should be sealed. Yet it looks as though something tore away at the plastic casing and exposed the insides. Do you happen to know what is contained in this unit? Thank you greatly for your attnetion tot his matter.
Notes: Has new tires and exhaust from the cat. back.
AnswerHi Josh,
On the plastic unit below the alternator, I don't have a similar car to look at, so if you can tell me is this item mounted on the engine or on the firewall? And if it has wires connected to it what type of plug, how many wires, and what are the wire colors and anyother connections to it that aren't electrical in nature would be helpful to know.
On the running problems, it is always useful to get as much info from the onboard diagnostic capability as you can, both from the engine and the transmission.
On the transmission there is on board diagnostics and a memory unit that stores coded fault messages. There is a chance there is some internal mechanical wear/damage to the internal clutches of the transmission, but because the cost of rebuilding is so high it is worth spending a little on analyzing whether that is true or not. It may also be the case that the problem is with electrical connections/computer or with the transmission fluid system (hydraulic) and those can be repaired without removing or rebuilding the transmission at much less cost.
The transmission has an electronic controller that has the ability to recognize malfunctions and store them in its memory as two-digit fault codes. An electronic readout device is plugged into a port under the dash to access the memory and tell you the fault code numbers. It would be worth spending about $50 to have this done just in case the problem had to do with the hydraulic or electronic parts rather than the internal mechanical parts because those could be repaired without taking the trans out of the car and dismantling it. So a dealer or a competent independent transmission shop (but NOT a franchise type like Aamco where the usual answer will be to do a "rebuild") with a reader for Chrysler transmissions should be able to do that. Ask for the code number(s), what they mean, what repair is needed and how much it will cost. Be sure that they have the 6-pin ("buss diagnostic connector") reader plug adapter that will give them access to the memory via the port under the dash. This is NOT the same plug as is in the engine compartment (which is a 5-pin plug) for accessing the engine controller memory. Their reader also has to be equipped with a program (cartridge) that accesses the transmission computer. A Chrysler dealer will have this device called a DRB II.
Then write back and we'll evaluate what you were told, particularly what are the fault code numbers. I have the factory repair manual and can look up what the numbers mean and what needs to be done to fix this.
You don't have to authorize a repair until you decide you understand the situation, and maybe get another repair estimate. You might even ask before they do the readout if in the case you decide to authorize the shop to do the repair "will the cost of the readout be credited against the cost of the repair"?
So take your time with this so you don't do any more unnecessary repairs. The cost of a rebuild is high so getting a second bid is worthwhile and also comparing warranty provisions is wise.
On the engine stumbling question there is a similar memory unit for the engine controller and this one you can readout yourself: Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the troubleshooting manual for the 3.0 engines and we can look up the possibilities of what is wrong based upon what fault codes you show. There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair. Let me know the codes and I can give you some direction.
Good luck to you and let me know what you learn.
Roland
