Questionhi Roland, what i was trying to say is that the ground wires are just left of the brake pedal under the carpet and rubber,it appears to be a central location for about 12 ground wires,they look ok.also the plugs on the bcm look ok, and then i was wondering if you thought the problem might be in the bcm its self (the dash lights going on and off)
as far as the lack of power i have no codes showing,ican not get in to see the egr because of location but think i will replace anyway thanks.
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Followup To
Question -
Hi Roland,plugs on bcm look ok,ground looks ok,it is accually on the firewall just left of brack pedal there is about 12 wires that come to a central connection.do you thinc maybe it is the bcm,also should the headlights come on with daytime running lights or is it just the front marker supposed to come on.the egr is on the back side and hard to see and appears to be sealed. thanks-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I have a 97 voyager that if you accelerate hard it sounds loud but speeds up very slow(bogs)but runs fine if light on the pedal.Already did plugs,wires,cap,rotor,fuel filter.what else could it be? also dash lights go on and off when they want,been told its in the switch but changed that too and it still is the same.Any idea? thanks in advance
Answer -
Hi Dan,
Have you tried doing a fault code readout? This may be something you can do with the ignition switch ("on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing this in 5 seconds or less. Then watch for any flashing/pause/flashing etc of the check engine light in which case count the flashes; or possibly a code showing in the odometer window) or you may have to get it readout at a dealership or shop with a plug-in code reader. Then let me know the codes/which engine and we can go from there. Other than that, I would take a look at the egr valve (located between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold) to see if the stem of the valve is sticky in its motion. Take a screwdriver and lever the slot back and forth to verify that it moves easily against a spring action and closes positively. If not, then lubricate the valve stem where it enter the valve body with some solvent cleaner. That valve is supposed to close tightly at idle and at full throttle or you will get stalling.
You might also have catalytic converter honeycomb that is becoming restricted, which can be tested by a muffler shop.
The dash lights might be due to loose ground wire. Take a look for a ground point on the driver side kick panel (the area in front of the door opening) where there is a dash ground point (a black wire(s),it may be hidden by a trim panel) whose bolt may be loose. The lights are driven by an orange wire from the body control module which gets its signal from the headlamp switch, so there might be some crud at one of the plugs of the body control module that is causing a poor connection (water intrusion around the windshield falling on the plug can cause this). I believe that the module is located under the dash behind the fuse box.
So please let me know what you learn.
Roland
Answer -
Hi Dan,
I don't understand your answer: you mention the bcm plugs and then you ask if bcm is on the firewall? No. It is in the cabin, always where I believe I described it to be. I am not familiar enough with the engine compartment to know what the unit your first asked about is.
I don't know enough about DRL to answer that question.
How about the code readout? Any luck there?
On the egr: look at it carefully, for the space between the capsule on the top and the body of the valve on the pipe where you will see an open area with a rod inside. That is the rod I suggest you test for movement, etc.
That is my best set of suggestions for the bogging down issue.
Roland
AnswerHi Dan,
if you can locate a solid orange wire at the bcm I would probe it with a straight pin and then measure the voltage from it to ground when the lights are normal and when they are blinking to see if the voltage supply on that wire is the problem, or if there is a bad connection in the dash cluster itself. Also check the orange/black wire in a smilar way, which is the one from the dimmer variable resistor at the headlamp switch to verify that you don't have a bad connection, even though you replaced the switch. From those tests you should be able to pinpoint where this occuring.
Thanks for telling me the location of the ground on your van.
On the egr, if you can replace it, you should be able to get close enough to test that valve stem and maybe save the time and cost of replacing it.
Roland
