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My wife drives a chryler voyager. A couple of days ago she was driving down the e-way when the oil light started flickering on and off.She pulled off the next exit, where there just happened to be a service station. The mechanic on duty told her it was probably the oil sending unit. Naturally just guessing. However when she got back on the road, she tried to give it gas it started to sputter,then just quit all of a sudden. One of my friends told me it might be the fuel injectors, and that the reason the oil light was flickering is because there may have been gas getting in the oil. It's not missing or anything. It still turns over. So the engines not tied up.Tell me , Do you think my friend could be right?
Answer -
Hi Evan,
Your friend could be right, but it is difficult to believe that the oil pressure could be reduced to the extent of causing the warning light to come on when the rpm was at e-way speeds. Rather the engine may have been sputtering and the rpm dropping to that point where it would cause the light to go on.
As to what to do, you didn't happen to mention if it is a pre-'97 vehicle but if it is you should be able to ask the engine controller to tell you any fault codes it has stored in its memory by using the ignition key: on-off-on-off-on and leave on, doing this within an elapsed time of 5 seconds or less. Then watch the check engine light to flash,pause,flash,pause... Count the nubmer of flashes before each pause, then group those numbers in pairs to form two digit numbers that are the fault codes. The last code will be 55 meaning end of readout. Reread the codes to make sure you have the numbers exaxtly right If you don't get that response from the check engine light then the controller has to be read out via an external code reader plugged in to an adapter under the dash. If you can get it to a dealer or a good tune-up shop the codes can then be read for direction as to what is really wrong. Some part stores will do a readout for free (others have said this of Autozone).
If you get the codes let me know what numbers they are, what engine, trans, and year the van is, and we can evaluate what the person who read the codes said is wrong before you authorize an expensive repair based on the codes.
Roland
It's a 2001 with a 2.4 litre in it. Previouly she took it to a shop where the mechanic told her it was either the coil pack or one her fuel injectors,because evidently her check engine light had been on for a while. Unbeknownst to me. She also took it to auto zone where they told her it had something it do with her no. 4 spark plug that was before she took it to the shop. I just went out and tried to start it. She said when it died on the e-way, it was almost like she had run out of gas. Ask me how she knows that, yes sir she's done that several times before too. Evan
Answer -
Hi Evan,
I assume that when you went out to start it that it wouldn't start. Is it possible that it is out gas (any idea how far its gone since the tank was last filled, or bought and compared to how far travelled? May the gauge has failed?) To make sure that there is power to the pump turn the ignition switch to run while a helper listens for a humming sound from under van near the tank; it will only last for 1-2 seconds. But if you hear that then you know the pump is working. But whether it works when you are trying to start van remains to be determined.
If you are sure that you have gas, the first thing to do is check for spark. If you have a spare spark plug use it to fit into one of the spark plug caps remove from a plug on the engine (why not plug #4). Or if you don't have a plug put the shaft of a Phillips head screwdriver with a plastic handle in the rubber spark plug cap so it touches the wire deep in the cap. Then hold the the handle of the screwdriver so that the exposed part of the shaft is 1/4" from the cylinder head (or if you are using a spare spark plug hold the rubber and touch the threaded part of the plug to the cylinder head). Have a helper crank the engine for 5 seconds while you observe for spark to jump between the shaft and the head (or in the case of the plug, to jump from the center electrode to the outer electrode. Note how long the sparking continues: (not at all, 1-2 seconds, full 5 seconds of the crank). If you get full 5 seconds that is good, otherwise we have problem related to that.
If you get spark for 5 seconds of cranking then you will also be getting gas for 5 seconds. If not, then we have to figure out why the supply voltage is cutting off after 1-2 seconds or not even coming for that long. I can tell you more about that when you write back.
As for a code reading, the autozone "something to do with her no. 4 spark plug" is not very helpful. There are two codes for individual cylinders (one for misfire, one for injector control) and the tests differ for the two.
The 4 digit P---- number is what is really needed. But I can suggest a couple of things to look at: vacuum line leaks off of the intake manifold and a stuck ajar egr valve are common reasons for inability to start IF you have spark and fuel. So let me know the results from your spark test and we'll go from there.
Roland
Hi, I finally went out and checked the codes. It came out as a P0304 and a P1684. Which i know is true because i unhooked the the battery to install the camshaft sensor that was melted. Then of course the 304 code. It has to do with the no.4 cylinder the misfire. Could it actually just be the fuel injector? Evan
AnswerP.S. Another reason for sudden no start is an egr valve that is stuck open, so take a look at the valve's stem inside the opening on the valve between the body and the vacuum actuator. The rod had a slot in it into which you can insert a screwdriver tip and lever the stem up and dowm. See if it is moving freely and closing down fully with the aid of its internal spring pressure. If it is hanging up then try some WD-40 or other solvent on the stem where it enters the body in order to free up the movement of the valve and valve stem to which it is attched. You will find in in the return pipe from the exhaust manifold to the throttle body, just below the oil filler cap.
Roland
Hi Evan,
It could be the injector, but I still wouldn't move onto that possibility until I was satisfied that I had spark and fuel supply. Did you do those tests I suggested earlier?
The misfire code is mainly looking at rpm variations and if I understand you the engine is not even starting so what you may have going is a a simple variation in cranking speed due to a weak battery or variations in the compression pressure of the 4 cylinders. Unless you actually had the engine running since disconnecting the battery I would not place much emphasis on the P0304 code.
My inclination still would be to check the spark (after charging the battery) and listen for the fuel pump, then do a compression test of the cylinders. The possibilities are still too numerous to focus on one injector as the explanation for a no start. And to verify that it is the injector and not the spark coil or other wiring to that cylinder is going to require some test equipment to make the differential diagnosis. So that is my best advice which may or may not prove to be the answer.
Roland
