Chrysler Repair: 87 Lebaron fuel problems, fuel problems, ebay

Question
Hey Roland

Alright we checked the wires we are getting good Continuity across them,  and found that we are not getting the voltage that you are supposed to get across the 2 wires. Like the middle one we are getting 3 volts and on the outside one we are getting like 1 volt. One of them is supposed to get 5 and one is supposed to get something else, but either way we are not getting what we are supposed to. We are thinking it's the Logic module so we bought one of those on ebay for 26 dollars including shipping if we would've gone to the auto store it would've been like 200 so that's pretty cool. When we get that we'll see if that fixes the problem. We'll check the EGR to see if that's ok. It's still sending the error code 24 even after we replaced the TPS. So that's why we have bought the new logic module.

No we have the regular in line 4 cyclinder 2.5 liter.

Thanks for your help.

Robbie





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Followup To
Question -
Hello, I just acquired an 87 Lebaron with 54,000 miles on it. It hasn't been run in like 2 and a half years so let's start by saying that. We got all the bad gas out of it and put new gas in and it started up no problems there except the power loss light was on. When you go to accelerate you can hear it suck in air but it wants to die from what we think is not enough gas. We found that the power loss light was saying the code 24 for the thottle positioning sensor so we replaced that still doing it. We replaced the fuel pump regulator and the fuel filter still doing it. The fuel injector is clean everything seems to be all working but still wanting to die. Please help. Thanks for taking the time.

Robbie
Answer -
Hi Robbie,
I had one further thought. It might be that the TPS wires are the issue, not the sensor itself. So disconnect the battery for a few minutes to erase previous codes, and then you should only have a 12 codes stored in the memory (means that the battery was disconnected recently). Then drive it for a few trips and see if you get the throttle position sensor code again. If so that would mean that the wires to the sensor have been damaged by heat from the exhaust manifold nearby and you will have to separate them and reinsulate them. If you don't get the tps code then there is no problem with the tps or its wires.
Roland




Hi Robbie,
While it could be fuel supply you could instead have a mixture or even a timing issue. I would start by checking out the exhaust gas recirculation valve to make sure that it is not sticky or stuck ajar. It is located behind the engine (between the engine and the firewall) and it is closer to the front of the engine so stand on the passenger side and look down and in behind the engine for the egr which has a pipe coming from the exhaust manifold to its underside and a pipe from it going to the intake*. There is a vacuum operated round fitting on its top, and also a vacuum line going to an electrically operated valve closer to the engine, nearer the throttle body. Look under the round fitting (which is mounted on a saddle with openings for access to view) on the top of the valve where you will see a vertical rod with a slot in it which is the valve stem. Take a straight blade screwdriver and use the slot to lever the valve up against spring pressure and see if it is dropping back down due to spring's action and closing positively. Put WD-40 on the stem to loosen it up in that motion if necessary. Check to make sure the vacuum lines are all attached and not cracked. Then warm up the engine and observe the slot to see if it goes up when you rev the engine to 2500 rpm and then drops back down fully, closing the valve, when you let the engine go back to idle rpm. Make sure that the fully down position is really down because if it is not fully closing when you let go of the accelerator and coast that will cause the engine to stall. It may be that to get it to close you'll have to unbolt it and clean out the gas flow passage past the valve due to buildup of exhaust fumes in the valve as sticky crud deposit around the internal valve.
The other thing to verify is that the spark timing is set to 12BTDC with the coolant temp sensor's plug on the thermostat housing disconnected (the fan will come on when you pull that plug) and the engine warmed up. Those are the most likely causes for stalling on deceleration absent any other fault code.
I will be busy today so I won't be able to respond to a follow-up question until this evening.
Roland
*Because you said power loss light I wonder if you might have the turbo engine? If so, then the egr is still behind the engine but it is at the rear corner closest to the driver.  

Answer
Hi Robbie,
If you are speaking of the tps plug as the one you are measuring, the orange/white has 5.0 volts, and the black light blue is the ground for the sensors, so you ought to get a 5V reading if you measure between those two wires. The orange/dark blue is the variable voltage carrying wire from the wiper of the TPS so I would not expect it to read any specific voltage when it is disconnected from the sensor. But if you checked that all three wires are connected to the plugs of the logic module and you don't have 5 volts between the outside pins of the plug then the logic module is bad.
Roland