Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
My plym last night 2/13 all of a sudden would not go into gear at all. There was a whining noise about a week prior thpught it was a belt, the noise would go away within 1 minute. Now it does not go away. Does this sound like the tranny is shot or maybe a sensor or selanpid? Please help
Answer -
Hi Tonica,
The first thing to do is to check the fluid level on the transmission dipstick, located on the driver's side of the powertrain on the side facing the front of the car. Let the engine warm up then with the engine idling pull the dipstick and wipe off the fluid and reinsert it all the way down and pull it out again and compare the level of the fluid with the marks etched on the dipstick. If it is below full so far as to be below the add mark then I would get some Chrysler brand type 7176 fluid from a dealer and add it slowly to the trans thru the dipstick tube until it is just at the full mark, don't overfill. If no sound after that, then try to put the trans in gear and see if it moves. If it doesn't move and it is still making the noise then try to determine where is it coming from. Is it from the joint where the engine ends and the transmission is attached or is it coming from the body of the transmission itself, further to the left side of the car (the driver's side)? The former is called the torque converter area, the latter the transmission. Then write back and we can go thru the next steps.
But making sure the fluid level is up to full and localizing the noise source is a good starting point.
Roland
The fluid is right where it should be and red pink in color. I believe the noise is coming from the left side of the car.There have been no other signs or symptoms no engine light bucking slipping or anything
AnswerHi Tonica,
SInce the fluid is o.k. about the only other explanations are a mechanical, electrical, or hydraulic problem that will require diagnosis by a shop, or that the cable between the gear shift lever and the transmission has become disconnected. The latter possibility is something that you could verify with the help of a friend. One of you would move the gear shift while the other observes the side of the transmission (on the left side of the car attached to the motor) that faces the front of the car where there is a cable that should be moving a lever mounted on an upright fitting. That is the lever that changes the transmission gear from p to r to n to d, etc. See if that lever is being moved by the cable. If you don't see any movement then the cable is disconnected and that is something an amateur might be able to fix. Aside from that, if the car won't move then you have to have it towed and evaluated at a shop. Here is my thoughts on where to have that done:
The chances are there is some internal mechanical wear/damage to the internal clutches of the transmission, but because the cost of rebuilding is so high it is worth spending a little on analyzing whether that is true or not. It may also be the case that the problem is with electrical connections/computer or with the transmission fluid system (hydraulic) and those can be repaired without removing or rebuilding the transmission, at much less cost.
The transmission probaboly has an electronic controller that has the ability to recognize malfunctions and store them in its memory as four-digit fault codes. An electronic readout device is plugged into a port under the dash to access the memory and tell you the fault code numbers. It would be worth spending about $50 to have this done just in case the problem had to do with the hydraulic or electronic parts rather than the internal mechanical parts because those could be repaired without taking the trans out of the car and dismantling it. So a dealer or a competent independent transmission shop (but NOT a franchise type like Aamco where the usual answer will be to do a "rebuild") with a reader for Chrysler transmissions should be able to do that. Ask for the code number(s), what they mean, what repair is needed and how much it will cost. Their reader has to be equipped with a program (cartridge) that accesses the transmission computer. A Chrysler dealer will have this device called a DRB III.
Then write back and we'll evaluate what you were told, particularly what are the fault code numbers. I have the factory repair manual and can look up what the numbers mean and what needs to be done to fix this.
You don't have to authorize a repair until you decide you understand the situation, and maybe get another repair estimate. You might even ask before they do the readout if in the case you decide to authorize the shop to do the repair "will the cost of the readout be credited against the cost of the repair"?
So take your time with this so you don't authorize unnecessary repairs. The cost of a rebuild is high so getting a second bid is worthwhile and also comparing warranty provisions is wise.
But that readout is the only way to avoid doing the wrong repair.
Roland
