QuestionMy car is a 1990 Chrysler LeBaron highline, with the TBI 2.5 non-turbo. Recently when starting it would constantly die and need to be restarted till warm, and when driving it would occasionally die. Just before it died the gauges would jump. I checked error codes and got bad O2 sensor, so i replaced it. the car ran better but still had the same problem. I replaced plugs (gapped at .035) and air filter. This time when I started the car it ran for about 10 seconds and i havent been able to start it since. I checked all connections and fuses. It turns over but doesnt start. The engine has 116k on it. Thanks for any help.
AnswerThe best way to tell about fuel pressure is to measure it with a pressure gauge. Because you said that you checked codes I assume that is true now, correct, and that you still don't have any codes? Do you hear the pump run for 1-2 seconds when you switch the key from off to run? If so, then the pump is pumping, but that doesn't prove it is pumping during cranking or holding pressure and that it and the regulator are providing 14 psi. Check now for whether you are getting a full 5 seconds of 12V on the + post of the ignition coil during a 5 second crank, which will assure you that the pump is pumping during cranking.
I would be inclined to believe that injector is bad. Measure the resistance between the two contacts at the disconnect for the injector on the top of the throttle body. It should be around 1 ohm, but even if that is correct it might not function properly. But the fact that you are not seeing a steady fine symmetric spray from the injector during a 5 second crank has the fingerprint of a bad injector. It has a large enough orifice that it is doubtful that it is clogged. These do wear out, as I discovered on mine, at around 80k miles. It is up to you as to whether to do the testing listed above or spend the $150 on the assumption that it is the injector. You need to remove the connector cap for the injector if you replace it so you might as well measure the resistance. It has a screw with a torx head. Lift off the cap with small flat blade screwdrivers in the slots provided between the lower edge of the cap and the hole into which it is fitted. There is a step-by-step procedure I can type in for how to replace the injector but begin by noticing the + mark on the top of the injector and how it is oriented (draw yourself a picture, to be sure the injector is in the same orientation when it is reassembled).
Roland
I tried your suggestion with the EGR valve, and it is not sticking. But the injector doesnt have a spray pattern like you mentioned. When the key is turned on it does a little spurt on the butterfly, no pattern. Is it possible to clean it without having to buy a new injector? Or am i not getting enough fuel pressure?
Hi Mike,
I have the same engine in an 89 coupe. The two items that come to mind are the fuel injector and the egr valve. Take a look at the spray pattern falling on the throttle plate while a helper cranks the engine. See if is a very fine symmetrical pattern and that it stops without dripping when the helper stops cranking. If that injector has gone bad it could have caused the O2 sensor code. It is easy to replace but costs about $150.
The egr valve is located near the fire wall behind the engine on the passenger end (front) of the engine. In the saddle or cage area under the round top you will see a rod with a slot. That is the valve stem. Use a screwdriver tip to raise the slot (open the valve against spring pressure) and lower the slot to see that the valve closes down firmly. You might spray some WD-40 on the bottom of the stem where it enters the valve body and work the stem up and down again. Then see if it starts and idles after that. If that valve is ajar when you try to start it the mixture is diluted and it won't catch and idle.
Let me know if either of these approaches work out. I have had both! But it is a great engine.
I don't know what to make of the gauges jumping, but tell me more about that phenomenon when you write back.
Roland
