QuestionHi Roland,
The other codes are as follows: P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input); P1798 - Coolant Temperature Circuit malfunction; and P1799 Hold Switch Circuit Malfunction.
Thanks
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Followup To
Question -
Hi Roland,
Of course, the dealership has given me the worst possible answer. The choices are either to overhaul or replace the transmission for about $2600 for either option. They said I had five fault codes and they are as follows: P1799, P0733, P0734, P0705, and P1798. I was told that all of these codes relate to shifting of gears in the transmission. I hope you have better news for me than they did. I look forward to hearing your response and thank you for your help. I would be totally lost otherwise.
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Followup To
Question -
While I was driving my vehicle, I went to make a turn and heard a noise from the engine (unfortunately my radio was on so I can't describe it) and after that my car will only drive at low speeds. Also the check engine light came on soon after this happened. I will be bringing the car to the Chrysler dealer but I don't know what to expect? Help
Answer -
Hi Pam,
Two other possibilities, though the check engine light coming on makes the first one less likely:
Because you said that this happened while turning, the noise could have been a cv-joint on one of the half shafts which might have been damaged due to loss of grease. If the noise continues when you are moving and worse if you turn then that is a possibility, so take it easy to the dealer. The check engine light though makes me wonder if this is the cause, particularly if the trans only runs in one gear speed (2nd).
The other possibility is some issue with the engine, but that wouldn't necessarily happen when turning but just by chance. An engine noise with loss of power could be a timing belt that jumped off of its position or any number of other possibilities. But if the transmission will start in 1st then shift thru 2nd and on to 3rd then this is a more likely possibility.
So those are some other ideas which you can evaluate before going to the shop. If you think it is the joint or the engine you could instead go to front end/alignment shop or independent engine shop. But if it is the trans possibility I described in my first answer, I would start at a dealer for the code readout, then get a second opinion/estimate at a quality indendent trans shop if the diagnosis is 'remove and rebuild' because that is very costly and you might get at least as good a deal and warranty at less cost from an independent trans shop with a good reputation.
Roland
Hi Pamela,
By "only drive at low speeds" I suspect that you mean the transmission is not shifting to higher gears so that the engine turns fast but the speed of the car doesn't get beyond maybe 50 mph and even then it is really revving loudly. Correct? If so that is called "limp-in mode" when the transmission refuses to drive in any gear but reverse of 2nd gear. That exact lock up is what happens when the transmission computer notices something is wrong and so it protects the transmission by only driving in 2nd gear until it can be serviced so as to protect against any further damage.
The chances are there is some internal mechanical wear/damage to the internal clutches of the transmission, but because the cost of rebuilding is so high it is worth spending a little on analyzing whether that is true or not. It may also be the case that the problem is with electrical connections/ transmission computer or with the transmission fluid system (hydraulic) and those can be repaired without removing or rebuilding the transmission at much less cost.
The transmission has an electronic controller that has the ability to recognize malfunctions and store them in its memory as four digit fault codes. An electronic readout device is plugged into a port under the dash to access the memory and tell you the fault code numbers. It would be worth spending about $50 to have this done just in case the problem had to do with the hydraulic or electronic parts rather than the internal mechanical parts because those could be repaired without taking the trans out of the car and dismantling it. So a dealer or a competent independent transmission shop (but NOT a franchise type like Aamco where the usual answer will be to do a "rebuild") with a reader for Chrysler transmissions should be able to do that. Ask for the code number(s), what they mean, what repair is needed and how much it will cost. Be sure that they have the reader and plug adapter that will give them access to the memory via the port under the dash. Their reader also has to be equipped with a program (cartridge) that accesses the transmission computer. A Chrysler dealer will have this device called a DRB III.
Then write back and we'll evaluate what you were told, particularly what are the fault code numbers. I have the '94 factory repair manual and can look up what the numbers mean and what needs to be done to fix this.
You don't have to authorize a repair until you decide you understand the situation, and maybe get another repair estimate. You might even ask before they do the readout if in the case you decide to authorize the shop to do the repair "will the cost of the readout be credited against the cost of the repair"?
So take your time with this so you don't do unnecessary repairs. The cost of a rebuild is high so getting a second bid is worthwhile and also comparing warranty provisions is wise.
But that readout is the only way to avoid doing the wrong repair on these complex transmissions.
Roland
P.S. Happy New Year, though this is not the best way to start it.
Answer -
Hi Pamela,
Thanks for getting back with the answers. Those 3 codes would not appear to put in question the validity of the 0733 or 0734 codes. What those 733 and 734 codes report is basically that there is some internal slippage in the cluches that have to be firm to transmit the power efficiently from the engine to the wheels. Such internal flaws can not be remediated without removing and opening the transmission. About the only other possibility, which you can check yourself, is the level and condition of the trans fluid. You will find a trans dipstick on the side of the trans that faces the front of the vehicle approximately in front of where the driver is seated. Warm up the engine and then with the engine idling and in park check whether the level of the fluid shown on the dipstick is in the safe range. If not then that would be worth pointing out to the Chrysler shop that did the test and ask them to add trans fluid and then erase the fault codes, road test the car, and re-do the test for free. The fluid has to be in the proper operating level or almost anything can go wrong, and it should be checked before doing a readout. But if the level is o.k. as you read the dipstick, then I would have to conclude that there is some internal damage to the trans. Also smell the fluid, which if it has a burned odor would corroborate the slippage problem.
But you still of course have to decide if you need to spend $2600 for the repair. At that price, which is about the highest I have ever heard for a rebuild, I would definitely go to another trans shop, tell them the recent history including the code readout, and see what they would propose for a repair process, the cost, and what warranty they would give on their work. It is tough, with an eight year old vehicle, to put that amount of money into a repair, I know.
If something interesting comes of these investigations please let me know. And thank you for the kind feedback evaluation.
Roland
Hi Pamela,
The code number lists that I have only describe P0733 and 0734 and those are an error between the input and output speed sensors on the trans in 3rd and 4th gear. But if I had the word descriptions (fault names) for 0705 and 1798 and 1799 I would be better able to conclude whether or not the only answer is a rebuild. So if you will speak to the person who gave you the codes and ask for what the names are for those three codes, that would be of help to me. For example it could be a problem with the speed sensor(s) not reading accurately which would then cause not only 733 and 734, but also one or more of the three codes that I don't understand because thay are not on my list. Were the sensors at fault it might well make the 733 and 734 suspect. If such is not the case, then the 733 and 734 are validated and would indicate a rebuild solution.
So see what you can get on the 'fault names' for the other 3 codes.
Based on what comes out of that inquiry, I would be inclined, if there were an independent shop with a good reputation that knows the Chrysler trans, to let them do a readout and prognosis and give you a cost, and comparitive warranty, now that the dealer has given you this worst possible course to decide upon.
Roland
AnswerP.S. The significance of the 'range selector' being at fault is that for the trans to do a proper gear ratio self- test and conclude there is or is not a fault, it has to have the correct information as to what gear it is in. Thus the need to correct the range selector circuit or at least test it for malfunction and correct it and then see what happens. It could be going into limp-in mode because of a faulty answer that it gives itself when it measures the gear ratios based on a faulty indication of what gear it is in!
Roland
