QuestionFollow up
From Peter Danylchuk
Subject: No electrical power to windows/heater controls/airbag/power brakes.
Date of Question 12/22/05
Date of 1st Response 12/23/05
Hi Roland,
Thanks for your response. All the fuses (10 clear plastic covered), under the hood checked out
OK with a continuity tester. There were 3 green 40 amp fuses, none were labeled J, but the one in
the lower right corner (looking in from the left front fender) was for the "ABS pump motor".
Again, all were OK.
The under dash fuses also checked out OK with the continuity tester, but the low voltage tester
(used with the key turned on), showed no current going to:
#6 - 10 amps - Climate control, ABS module, back up lights, etc.
#7 - 10 amps - Air bag Module
#21 - 25 amps - Blower Motor
(none of the under dash fuses were labeled ( C1, F20, F21, or F23)
That's what I have so far. What is the next step?
Thanks, Pete
-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
On my '93 Chrysler Concorde 3.3 engine, I have lost power to:
Windows (all closed and cannot open)
Heater/AC controls and blower (heat comes through and cannot be
controlled, so car gets hot).
The air bag and anti-lock brake warning lights are on as well.
I have checked all the dashboard fuses and they look OK.
I would appreciate any info or suggestions.
Thanks, PRD
Answer -
Hi Peter,
Please forgive the slow response, but the Allexperts site has been refusing to send the answer
that I wrote to you yesterday. I am going to try to repeat it again from memory:
There is also some master fuses in the power distribution center under the hood in the box that
is directly in front of the driver's side shock absorber strut tower (or behind the window washer
refill bottle). In the box you will see an array of 10 fuses, of which two are green. The green one
in one of the corners is labeled J and it in turn feeds the four fuses under the dash that power all
the circuits that are dead, so probably that fuse is blown. If it is blown out then there should be
another fuse under the dash (either C1, F20, F21, or F23) that is also blown and that is the circuit
that is causing the problem. (I can tell you more once you find which fuse and if you have a volt-
ohmmeter). If it just has a subtle crack in it, then that J fuse may just have fatigued over time and
needs to be replaced and that is it.
If the J fuse looks (and tests with a meter, ideally) o.k., the the problem is the ignition switch thru
which the current from the J fuse has to pass to reach the 4 fuses under the dash.
So let me know what happens by a follow up question using the tab below my answer.
Roland
AnswerHI Pete,
I got your comment, thanks. Looking at the '94 manual for steering column tear down to reach the ignition switch:
Put the tilt in the lowest position. Then there are 3 screws (two on either side of the tilt lever and one forward of that which when removed should allow the upper cover to come off if you have the tilt position as far down as possible. If not, then try removing the two AC/air ducts under the steering column so it might drop even lower to get the upper column cover out. Then tilt the wheel to the full up position. Then remove a screw at the base of the tilt lever that holds that lever in place and remove it.
Then remove the three screws that are more centrally located directly under the tilt lever mechanism and the lower shroud should drop off. If any of the screws are strange (neither slotted nor Phillips) then they are very likely to be Torx type heads (maybe a #20 size, I can't be sure) and you can either get Torx screwdrivers or Torx socket style fittings for a ratcheting wrench (1/4 or 3/8 drive) that will fit those screwheads at a hardware store.
So it appears there may be a total of 6 screws and the screw on the tilt lever arm itself that you have to remove to get those two covers off to gain access to the switch and its plug for testing.
Roland
Hi Pete,
There should also be a 20 amp fuse (red) under the dash for the power windows and it too should show no current. I can't tell the number because the labels in my '94 manual are not the same as are in you car.
So about all that could explain all four being dead is that either the lower corner green fuse doesn't have 12V on it at all times (which is hard to believe because it is on a common bus from the battery + post, but check it anyway), the pink/black wire from that fuse to the ignition switch has an open in it, the black/orange wire also at the ignition switch doesn't have 12v on it as it should when the key is in the 'run' position (e.g. that section of the switch is faulty but you might try spraying some contact cleaner inside the switch body), or the black/orange wire from there to the under dash fuse block has an open it which is denying the 12V needed for the four fuses that are not getting any power supply. So it should be pretty easy to determine which possibility is killing your circuits.
To get at the ignition switch: remove the tilt lever attaching screw and remove the lever. Then remove the steering column upper and lower covers. Then remove the multifuncion switch. Disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition switch. Then look at where the pins are for the pink/black and black/orange wires on the plug and conversely find the sockets for those same wires on the switch. Then measure for continuity between those pins with the switch in the run position. If you get it, then the switch is o.k. and it has to be a wiring issue from the J fuse to the i.s. or from the i.s. to the under dash fuse box.
Let me know what you find, please.
Roland
