Chrysler Repair: heater motor not blowing, chrysler new yorker, voltage measurements

Question
I am having a problem with my 1989 Chrysler New Yorker with the heater motor not blowing.  I followed your suggestions to another user with the same problem and I did the self diagnostic test.  The test gives me two trouble codes (02 and 06).  Can you tell me what they mean and what I can do to fix them.

Thanks for your help.

Answer
Hi Sean,
There are three voltage measurements/tests of the blower motor circuit that you should check out first. The 02 and 06 codes are secondary to testing the motor circuit, once that is found to be o.k. then you focus on the blend air door/wiring/control panel (02) and the power-vacuum module/wiring and control panel (06) code.
I believe that you will find the blower to be at the far right end of the unit inside the power vacuum module which is a large pentagonal object. The motor has a two wire connector (dark green and black) and the dark green wire coming to the motor disconnect plug carries 12V and that originates at fuse #11 which is powered when the ignition switch is "on". So check that fuse for continuity using an ohmmeter.  Then to reach the motor you have to remove the under dash valence below the glove box and also the glove box proper (remove the lamp socket and disconnect wire, remove the switch and disconect wire, remove 7 screws around the glove box opening and then remove box). Once you find the blower motor, disconnect it at its 2-wire plug. Then check for 12V on the incoming green wire when the ignition is on. If not, then fuse #11 is bad or the green wire is open between the fuse and the plug. If it is, then try jumping 12v across the plug's green wire pin/socket
interface and also jump a wire from the motor side of the plug's black wire to ground which will test the motor proper with a 12v supply and a direct to ground connection (any shiney metal structural part under the dash). If the motor doesn't respond then it should be removed and once again jumpered with wires directly from the + and - poles of the battery to make certain it is dead. If it runs, then there is a problem with the ATC variable voltage control for the various fan speeds. To check that, put the leads of the voltmeter across the disconnected plug that is normally connected to the motor plug (it has a dark green and a black/tan wire) and see if the voltage changes between 12v and 3v in steps when you try to change the blower motor speed control knob. If not the there is something wrong with the ATC control panel.
There are many more plugs and detailed tests that you could try once you either show the motor and its voltage supply to be o.k. or at fault. I think the best way would be for me to xerox the 13 pages text and 4 pages of wiring diagrams and snail mail them to you if the above checks don't solve the problem. So if you need them write back with a mailing address and the results of your test of the motor, fuse and voltage supply. It will cost me about $1.48 to xerox and mail you the pages so you could send me 4 - 37 cent stamps, after you get the pages, if you need them.
Roland