Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I have a 1996 new yorker the timing belt broke how do i get the motor set up to install the new chain ty in advance for the answer
Answer -
Hi Bobby,
You spoke of a "belt" and a "chain" which causes me to wonder whether you have the 3.3 or the 3.5L engine because one uses a chain the other a belt? And could you tell me what specifically you need to know: the entire process, setting the cam(s) so as to be timed to the crank, the steps to verify the timing is correct, or something else? Do you have any sort of repair manual that you are working with?
Thanks for any clarification you can give me.
Roland
Sorry for the confusion it is a belt and I am working with a chilton manual but it only tells you how to replace the belt not how to set the timing if it is broken.The motor is a 3.5 the belt broke and I can see the timing marks on both cams and the crank but do I just align the marks or is it like the older motors where you have to pull #1 to get it top dead center thats where I am a little confused with the dual cams and if I just spin them to line them up or is there a certain way to line them up I did line them up and the motor started but I dont want to take it back apart if the timing is off.
One more question I have is this is a project car just put this motor in and it would not start there was no spark there is power to the module but none to the coil when I put juice directely to the coil it starts is the module bad in this case thanks again for your help Bobby
Answer -
The timing mark for the crank is on the oil pump cover ("TDC") and there are timing marks for each cam sprocket on the cover edges (cam mark is placed between to two marks on the cover edge). If after you got the belt back on those three marks were still aligned, then you are good to go.
On the power to the spark, that is probably a situation where the autoshutdown relay is not doing its thing, which is to supply voltage to the coil and fuel pump. Usually it fails to do this because of a failure of the cam or crank sensor to produce a timing signal to the module so the module cuts the signal to the ASD after 2 seconds of cranking without a signal, or not cranking at all, as a fire safety measure (it would shut off because of a crash that shuts off the engine motion so the voltage for the spark and fuel are killed). But you apparently do have signal because the engine will run with the ASD essentially being by-passed, so that means the ASD itself could be faulty. It is located in a corner of the power distribution center under the hood and should be labelled. See if it clicks when you turn the ignition key to run, and then if it clicks again after 2 seconds if you don't try to start the car. If so then you would want to remove it and test that the contacts actually are conducting when the relay closes. Apply 12V across A+ to C- and then measure continuity from B to D pins of the relay. If the relay seems o.k., then the wiring from the pcm to the relay or the power supply to the relay needs to be checked. Don't by pass the relay and leave it that way because the fuel pump may be left running all the time and of course the safety feature will be defeated.
Roland
The timing marks were not lined up when the cover was taken oof what do I have to do in this case of basically starting from scratch with the marks out of line?
AnswerHi Bobby,
Begin by setting the engine at TDC on cylinder #1 compression stroke (the cam pulleys will have their marks at the proper position, or at least near to where they should be).
Mark the belt with an arrow to show which way it was running so that you install it in the same running direction.
Remove the timing belt tensioner (there are two bolts holding the "ears" of the tensioner in place, the bolt heads are inverted; the tensioner will then be removable along with the timing belt). The tension piston has to be compressed in order to reinstall it: put it in a vise and compress the tension piston far enough to insert a drill bit or pin in the holes in the side of the cylinder so as to retain the compressed piston in position until you are ready to reinstall it. Put the pin or drill bit in the cylinder in such a way that it's protruding side will be facing toward the front of the engine when you re-install it so you can then pull it out after installation.
Aligh the crank sprocket with the timing mark on the oil pump cover.
Align the cam sprokets to their timing marks (midway between the two marks on the rear covers).
Install the timing belt (arrow in the same direction that it was when your removed it) at the crankshaft sproket first and then working in a counterclockwise direction install it on the other pulleys, but as soon as the belt has gone onto the front cam pulley keep tension on the belt until it is past the tensioner pulley. Keep holding the tensioner pulley against the belt, install the tensioner and tighten the two bolts to 20 foot-pounds of torque (about the same as a spark plug).
When the tensioner is in place, pull the pin to allow the tensioner to move into contact with the pulley bracket.
Rotate the crankshaft pulley two full turns clockwise (in the normal rotation direction of the engine) and then recheck the alignment of the three pulley marks is correct. If they are not aligned, repeat the whole thing again!
Use new RTV sealant on the entire perimeter of the cast cover, and inspect the sealant on the stamped steel timing belt cover and where is it damaged fill in the spot with RTV.
If something is unclear I can snail mail you xerox copies of the 2 pages from the manual that show how this is done.
Roland
