QuestionWe were changing the rear plugs and was trying to get the distributer cap off and the lower screw broke, we need to pull the distributer off to fix the broken screw. We've taken off the 2 nuts that hold the distributer to the block and can't seem to get the distributer loose, any ideas or thoughts that would help us? Thanks in advance.
AnswerHi Rod,
There are about 14 steps to remove the distributor, believe it or not:
Here is the procedure to remove the distributor cap:
remove the bolt holding the air intake resonator to the intake maifold
loosen clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing
remove PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube
loosen hose clamp at throttle body
remove air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover
remove EGR tube
remove spark plug cable from distributor cap
loosen distributor cap hold down screws and remove cap
note and mark (on air intake plenum?) position of rotor and remove rotor
remove two harness connectors from distributor
remove two sets of distributor holddown nuts and washers
remove bolt and spark plug cable mounting bracket from top of distributor housing
remove bolt and transmission dipstick tube
carefully remove distributor from engine
to replace:
install rotor on shaft
positon distributor in engine. Make certain that the O-ring is properly seated on the distributor. If O-ring is cracked or nicked replace with a new one.
carefully engage distributor drive with slotted end of camshaft. When the distributor is installed properly the rotor will be in line with previously scribed line on air intake plenum. If engine was cranked you will have to get TDC on cyl 1, etc (write back for further instruction...)
install dostributor holddown washers and nuts, tighten to 9 ft-lbs
install spark plug cable bracket
install two harness connectors
install distributor cap
install spark plug cables onto distributor cap, the cap and the cables are numbered be sure all wires are firmly in place in the cable towers
install transmission dipstick tube
install EGR tube to intake manifold tighten bolts to 8 ft-lbs
On changing the spark plugs, here is the procedure:
Are you aware that the recommended frequency of spark plug changing on that engine is once every 100,000 miles? I have the procedure for changing the plugs on the back set of cylinders, but it ain't no fun! I haven't tried it but I will be pleased to type it into the message box and send it back to you, but be aware that there are 13 steps in the removal process so don't undertake this unless you have reached about 100,000 miles since the last change or you suspect there is something wrong with your plugs. The plug type is RC10PYP4 (double platinum) which requires care to avoid damage when you measure the gap. You will want to use these plugs so you don't have to change them again for another 100,000 miles!
Here are the steps for removing and replacing the plugs on cyl 1,3,and 5 of the 2.5L V-6:
Disconnect negative cable from auxiliary jumper terminal (I believe this is the ground wire tied to the strut tower on the driver's (left) side of the car).
Unplug the connectors from the MAP sensor and (just to its front) the intake air temp sensor.
Remove the plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of the MAP sensor
Remove the bolt holding the air inlet resonator (the thing with words "multi-point injection") to the intake plenum.
Loosen throttle body air inlet hose clamp
Release snaps holding air cleaner housing cover housing
Remove air cleaner cover and inlet hoses from the engine
Unplug throttle position sensor and idle air control motor connectors.
Pry retainer tab back on throttle cable and slide cable out of bracket. Remove cable from throttle lever.
Slide Speed control cable out of bracker, if equipped. Remove cable from throttle lever.
Remove EGR tube from intake plenum.
Remove plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of EGR tube
Remove bolts holding upper intake plenum and remove plenum
Always remove the ignition cable by grasping at the spark plug boot turning the boot 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion
Prior to removing the spark plug spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug
Remove the spark plug using a quality spark plug socket with a rubber foam insert
Inspect spark plug condition.
To avoid cross-threading start the plug into the cylinder head by hand
Tighten the spark plugs to 20 ft-lbs (28 N-m)
Install ignition cables over spark plugs
Install new gasket and position upper intake plenum. Tighten blots to 13 ft-lbs (18 N-m)
Install bolts at plenum support brackets (Same torque as above)
Install EGR tube at plenum. Tighten EGR tube to intake manifold plenum screws to 8 ft-lbs (11 N-m)
Install throttle and speed control (if equipped) cables
Attach electrical connectors to sensors.
Install air inlet tube clamp to to 25+/- 5 inch pounds (3 +/- 1 N-m)
Connect negative terminal to auxiliary jumper terminal.
There are some figures that show the parts which might be helpful but I don't have a document scanner. If you want the xerox copy of the pages let me know along with a postal address and I'll mail them to you. Best of luck with the project.
This is taken from the '95 Chrysler shop manual for the Cirrus.
Roland
