Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
my car will not start before this it would stall but start back up the last time it stall the tac staded at 2000 rpm,i replaced the fuel pump but the fuel pump doesnt run the engine doesn't havea heating problem the car ran good but it would hesitate
Answer -
P.S. I wanted to encourage you to try to get the fault code readout, and to do the spark test. The fuel pump will often not run, even though it is good, because of a built-in safety provision that turns off its power when the engine will not run because it has a malfunction in the spark system or because it won't start properly for another reason. The possibility of a gasoline fire, in the case of an accident that shuts off the engine but leaves the fuel pump running, is the reason for this automatic cut-off feature of the fuel pump.
Roland
Hi Richard,
I think we can figure this one out by doing some tests.
The modern engine systems have an on-board diagnostic ability. But whether you can access it yourself without a readout tool is uncertain. You should give it a try: The most useful thing to do would be to try to get the engine fault codes that may stored in the engine controller memory to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the troubleshooting manual for your engine and we can look up the possibilities of what is wrong based upon what fault codes you show.
There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair, and I can help you with that.
The problem could be one of fuel pressure being too low (pump or pressure regulator) or a spark issue. But because you replaced the fuel pump that is probably not the issue now. You can check for spark using a phillips head screw driver tip inserted into one of the spark plug wire caps in place of the plug so that the tip touches the wire connector deep in the cap, then hold the plastic handle of the screwdriver so the shaft is 1/4" from the cylinder head while a helper cranks the starter. (Don't touch any metal, so you don't get a shock), Just watch for a spark to jump from the screwdriver shaft to the cylinder head across the 1/4" gap. Don't crank it for more than 5 seconds. If you get spark then that is o.k. and the fuel supply issue is more likely. Another way to check for spark is to remove the cap from one of the spark plugs and either remove the plug too or if you have an old or new plug insert it in the cap and then hold the threaded shell of the plug against the cylinder head while a helper tries the engine and you observe for spark at the tip of the plug.
So give those things a try then write back with the results.
Roland
i got no spark
AnswerHi Richard,
That could mean one of several things:
The Autoshutdown relay is not working properly or
The Autoshutdown relay is not being activated because the crank or the cam sensor is bad.
Because you said the fuel pump doesn't run that suggests that both it and the spark coil aren't getting any voltage.
See if you hear the fuel pump run for a second or so when you first turn the ignitions switch to the run position. Then if not, see if the ASD relay in the power distribution center under the hood clicks when you first turn the ignition switch to run. (That is one of the four relays at one end of the box, #10) If it does, then check to see if fuse #5 (20 amp)in that box is o.k. and if it is then see if you get voltage at the fuel pump for a second when you turn the ignition switch to run. If you don't then the ASD relay has bad contacts if it clicks, or if it doesn't click then the acturator coil inside the ASD relay is bad. There could be a wiring issue but that is less likely so try a new ASD relay.
If the fuel pump runs for a second when you turn the ignition to run and yet you have no spark when you try and start it, then you need to make sure whether there is 12V getting to the plug of the coil when you are cranking, and if not then you have to determine whether the cam or the crank sensor is bad. The best way to do that is try and get the fault codes to read out. Did you try that readout and get anything? Let me know what happens from the these tests and whether you get any codes. I think the ignition switch readout trick I described before should produce a code readout.
Roland
