QuestionAs stated I have a 99 Intrepid, 2.7. About six months ago the car started to stale when I came to a stop or slowed down to a crawl. I found the error code for what was happening and it was a 1297 (map sensor).
So I order the part from NAPA/UAP and replaced it. After about a day the car went back to work as it had previously. then just last week the car started to perform as it did before, so I again checked for error codes and found that it again stated the MAP sensor was bad. So I returned the broken one and had it replaced as it was under warranty...The problem is that the car never returned to normal working conditions. It continued to as if the Map sensor was bad and still displayed the code of 1297.
What makes this more perplexing is the fact that the second time the replacement of the MAP sensor was performed at a local garage, who cleared the error codes after install...they could not find the problem and the only explanation that I was offered was that it could be a BAD sensor that I received...
My question is: Is there another sensor that could be bad, that would not show up on the error codes, and is causing the MAP sensor to go? If not is there a possible explanation for the reason my car is going through MAP sensors faster than OIL?
Thank you
Anthony
AnswerHi Anthony,
I don't believe the code is actually about another sensor and I don't believe that the sensors are going bad. More likely it is a wiring problem between the MAP and the Powertrain Control Module or there could be something stuck in the passageway between the MAP and the intake manifold plenum. I fortunately just acquired a troubleshooting manual for the engine and vehicle that you have (for the year 2001 but that should make no difference) and there is a 4 page step-by-step procedure for logically finding out why this is happening. You need an ohmmeter to check for continuity of wires and short circuits and an electronic voltmeter to measure the voltage supply and the signal. There are 3 wires between the MAP and the PCM and those are the ones that need to be checked. Also you need to shake them and the connectors in case there is an intermittant loose connection or broken wire. Finally if all that proves out then the MAP or the PCM is supposed to be replaced, depending upon some voltage readings.
So if you have the combination volt-ohmmeter and want to do this yourself I can try to condense this 14 step test into a few paragraphs or I can xerox copy about 6 pages and postal mail them to you (cost is minimal so you don't need to send me any reimbursement). It is possible that the local shop didn't actually go thru the wiring check and/or they were reluctant to recommend the purchase of a new PCM without verification that it is the only possible reason for the problem.
Let me know how you would like to proceed with this. Is the car still stalling out?
Roland
