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hi when i was talking to you about my front caliper i replace the front hose and still can't get brake fluid out of bleeder valve i check to see i valve was clog but fine and i also press on brake pedal and still no fluid comes out all other wheels are fine waht esle can be wrong
thank s for you help tim
Answer -
P.S. The bleeder fitting also might have rust obstructing its passageway so remove it and see if you can blow through it or see light coming thru the passageway of that fitting. If not, then clean it out with a stiff wire or get another one off a wreck.
Hi Tim,
I would take off the hose at the caliper fitting and then see if you can get any fluid out of the end of the hose. If you can't get any fluid there then there is a clog in the brake line between the master cylinder and the place where the new hose attaches. If you can get fluid out of the end of the hose then there is some crud in the caliper itself that has clogged the bleed hole and you will need to probe that hole or take apart the caliper piston/cylinder and clean it out. It has to be one of the other parts of the path from the master to the bleeder.
Roland
hi again the bleeder valve is clear and like i said i replace the hose still nothing still no fluid comeing out, also my theft securty light is on how do reset the light , it is on an 2002 concorde
Answer -
Hi Tim,
Then disconnect the hose and see if you get any fluid out of the brake line that it is attached to. If not, then work your way back to the master cylinder (line, proportioning valve, line, master brake) until you find the blockage or that the master is not working. We'll deal with the light next.
Roland.
hi the master cylinder is fine the brake fluid come out of hose
but not the caliper and the wheel stop good what esle is wrong
tell me how to reset light on thft system thank you tim
Answer -
If you are saying that there is fluid coming out of the end of the new hose which attaches to the caliper, but that you can't bleed the caliper then all I can suggest is that you remove the bleeded fitting and try inserting a rod into the hole because that is the only way you could have fluid entering the caliper but not being driven out of the caliper via the bleeder. There must be an obstuction in the caliper chamber.
On the theft system, that light is presumably telling you that there is something wrong with the system. I would do the following diagnostic test to see if you can find out what part is not working: There may be a diagnostic self-test you can run on the system, at least this was so in the mid-90's and it may help localize the cause of the problem if it involves one of the other parts of the system. A diagnostic mode is available in the system to verify operation of all monitored switches or circuits. To enter diagnostics, cycle the ignition key to the accessory position 3 times, leaving the key in this position.
Upon entering diagnositics, the park and tail lamps will begin flashing to verify their operation. In addition, the horn will sound twice to indicate that the trunk key cylinder is in its proper position. Returning the ignition to the OFF position will stop the lamps from flashing while keeping the system in diagnostics.
While in diagnostics mode, a horn pulse should occur at each of the following events indicating proper operation:
(1) Beginning with all doors closed, open then close each door. The horn will sound when the door ajar switch closes, and then again when the switch opens. There must be a 1 second delay between closing and opening the switch.
(2) Open, then close the hood. The horn will sound when the hood is opened, and again when it is closed.
(3) Activate the power door locks in both the lock and unlock directions. The horn will sound after each activation.
(4) Rotate the key in each of the door lock cylinders to the unlock position. The horn will sound as the switch closes, and again when it opens. There must be a 1 second delay bwtween changing switch states, or the horn will not sound.
(5) Cycle the key to the ignition RUN position. A single horn pulse will indicate proper operation of the ignition input. This will also take the module out of diagnostics mode. For any of these tests, if the switch does not remain open or closed for at least 1 second, the horn will only sound once.
The lack of a horn pulse, during any operation, indicates a switch failure, the lack of that input in the Vehicle Theft Security system module, or a failure internal to the module. Check for continuity at the switch, if this is good, check for an open or shorted wire between the switch and the alarm module.
See if there is some point in the procedure where things don't follow the plan, and that will be the suspicious part.
Roland
hi one more question i put a radio the i got from a junk yard and i no the car runs the vin based theft so the radio can work how do i unlock this radio so i will play in the car now the radio have theftlock hope you can help i tryed to unlock it with the perset button on the radio but does nothing thank you tim
AnswerHi Tim,
I am sorry to say I don't have any info on the radio security systems. It is just beyond my experience and any manuals that I have. You might ask at a dealer or at an aftermarket audio installation shop.
What happened on the caliper problem?
Roland
