Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
We bought a used 1995 Chrysler Cirrus LX in August. It seemed
to be in great condition... then the problems started! Just before
we bought it, the previous owner had a module replaced due to
a problem starting the car - unfortunately I don't know what the
module was. Anyway, the car started fine when we bought it.
We park in a garage, so didn't have any problem until visiting
family and parking outside on grass overnight. There was heavy
dew during the night, and the car wouldn't start in the morning.
Around noon, we tried it again, and it started no problem. We
parked on the cement driveway the next night, and it started
fine in the morning. Then after parking elsewhere for about half
an hour, it wouldn't start - no noise or anything, just dead. We
called for a tow, and the driver thought to check the fuses, and
the 20 amp starter fuse was blown. Replaced it and the car
started, so we thought Aha, that's it, and didn't tow to the
garage. Then, an hour later, it wouldn't start again! We got
some fuses, and the car blew the same fuse on every attempt to
start. So, towed to the garage. They replaced the starter.
Everything then fine for a couple of weeks, parking in our
garage. Then, visit family again, park on cement, wicked rain
storm overnight, car won't start in the morning. It starts later on
with no problem. What's going on? Some sort of electrical
problem that rears its ugly head only during wet weather?
Needless to say, we have no mechanical knowledge. We bought
the car for $3900, immediately spent $1800 having the oil pan,
exhaust crossover pipe, two tires, and some belts replaced, then
$450 on the starter. We are out of money and don't want to be
taken to the cleaners on another repair that isn't going to solve
the problem.
Thanks for any help you can offer!
Nancy
Answer -
Hi Nancy,
I'll go my best to help you on this problem. Am I correct that you now have no problem with the
starter motor not cranking the engine, but rather that although it will crank the engine the
engine will not catch and run? If that is not the case let me know.
One of the features of modern cars is that the engine is controlled by a computer that has the
ability to sense problems in the sensors and actuators that are needed to operate it. These are
called faults, and each is given a two digit code number. Your controller can be asked to divulge
what fault codes it has detected and stored in its memory.
The most useful thing to do would be to try to get the fault codes that may stored in the engine
controller memory to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it
"on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when
the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you
leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check
engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes
before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are
correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit
numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and
longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the
results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and
that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the troubleshooting manual for several engines and we can look up the possibilities of
what is wrong based upon what fault codes you show. When you write back tell me what engine
is in the Chrysler you are driving (2.0,2.4, or 2.5L).
There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what
exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair.
That is what I can give you help on. I think we can get to the bottom of this.
Roland
Roland, thanks so much for your speedy reply! The car is 2.5L, V6 engine. I just did the code
readout, and there was only one: 12. Checking the list, I understand that to be "battery or
computer recently disconnected." That makes sense, as the negative battery terminal was
disconnected to install a stereo, and the computer was possibly disconnected during servicing?
And yes, you are correct: "although it will crank the engine the engine will not catch and run." It
starts beautifully unless it has been parked outside in wet weather.
Thanks again,
Nancy
AnswerHi Nancy,
It is good that the issue of detectable faults is off the table. The classic reason for hard starting in the damp weather conditions is partial shorting to ground of the high voltage of the spark system due to worn out spark cables or a crack in the distributor cap. One good way to see this is to use a spray bottle with plain water, one that shoots a very find mist if possible: start the engine in a dark location (nighttime, on a dry night when the engine will start) and then while it is idling mist the three wires on each of the cylinder head covers and along any visible path back to the distributor and watch for arcing around the wires. If you see that light show that is an indication that ths insulating characteristics have been compromised by heat and time and need to be replaced. So give that a try and let me know if you find out anything interesting. It should be dark in the engine compartment and your eyes should be dark adapted to visualize any such arcing. You don't need to soak things, just get them damp as they would by nature.
Roland
